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2- 



CROCHET SERIES. 



No. I 



HOW TO 



CROCHET 



ILLUSTRATED. 



PRICE, 15 CENTS. 



KeM> 



PUBLISHED BY 

HEnSTR^ BRISTOW, 
296 Fulton St., Brooklyn, N, Y. 



N 



HOW TO 



CROCHET. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



COMPILED AND EDITED BY 
MA-RXE LOUISE KKRZMATST, 




PUBLISHED BY 

IE3I IE 2ST R, Y IBIRISTOW, 

296 Fulton St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, 

By HENRY BRISTOW, 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. 






£ 

"s 



ABBREVIATIONS USED IN INSTRUCTION. 

L Loop. 

S. C . Single Crochet. 

CI. Ch. St _ _ _ _ .. Close Chain Stitch. 

Ch. St J. ._. Chain Stitch. 

D. C -Double Crochet. 

D. D. C Double Double Crochet. 

T... Treble. 

P Picot, 

Pat Pattern. 



CROCHETING. 

The necessary materials for crochet work are 
either twine, linen thread, worsted, cotton or silk, 
and a crochet needle. The needle may be of bone, 
wood, rubber or steel; it must be even and smooth. 
A five-inch bone needle is considered best for twine, 
long wooden or rubber needles for worsted, and 
steel for cotton, silk or thread. 

The beauty of the work will depend greatly on 
the accuracy and evenness of the stitches, but this 
result can only be attained by practice. The work 
should not be either too tight or too loose, but elas- 



tic. The needle should correspond in thickness with 
the material used, and while working, the stitches 
should not be moved to and fro on the needle as 
they get entangled and make the work uneven. 
The material used should be as even as possible, 
especially in regard to linen thread in the crochet- 
ing of laces, insertions, etc. 

The mode of working the crotchet stitch, although 
in itself most simple, is difficult to describe in writ- 
ing, hence the reason for the many illustrations 
which we hope will make our explanation easily 
understood. The terms used in crochet books dif- 
fer to some extent, and as a rule only the simplest 
stitches are used. We intend to explain all known 
stitches, and in doing so have abopted what seemed 
to be the code most generally used in other works. 

All crochet work is begun with a chain of stitches, 
which constitutes the foundation of the work. 

There are three different kinds of foundations, 
namely : The single chain stitch, the double chain 
stitch, and the picot stitch. 

No. 1. — Single Chain Stitch. 

To make this stitch throw the cotton so as to form 
a loop, put it on the crochet needle, throw the cot- 
ton over the first finger, aud hold it with the re- 
maining fingers of the left hand. The crochet 
needle is held with the right hand, between the 
thumb and the first finger. Hold the cotton of the 
loop between the thumb and the first finger of the 
left hand and throw the cotton over the needle, and 



draw it through the loop on the needle which slides 
down from the needle in doing so, and the stitch is, 
made. 

This passing of the cotton through the loop is re- 
peated until you reach the desired length of your 
foundation. After some stitches have been cro- 
cheted the chain should be held with the thumb and 
the first finger of the left hand, in such a manner 
that those two fingers may be kept close to the hook 
of the needle. The single stitches must be large 
enough to allow the hook to pass afterwards easily 
through them. Every chain or foundation is begun 
with a loop. 

No. II.— Double Chain Stitch. 

Crochet two single chain stitches, then pass the 
crochet needle downwards into the left part of the 
first stitch; throw the cotton over the needle and 
pass it through as a loop ; throw the cotton again 
and pull it through both of the loops already on 
the needle. 

* Pull the cotton through the left half of the 
stitch just crocheted (see Fig. II.) ; throw the cotton 
over the needle and pull it through both'loops on 
the needle. 

Repeat from * until you have the desired length 
for your foundation. 

No. III.— Picot Stitch. 

* Crochet four chain stitches ; throw the cotton 
over the needle ; pass the needle downwards through 



6 

the left half of the first chain-stitch ; throw the 
cotton over the needle and pull it through the chain 
loop ; throw the cotton again over the needle and 
pass it through the first two loops on the needle ; 
throw the cotton again over the needle and pass it 
through the two remaining loops. 

The four chain stitches form the arch of the 
pattern "Picot." Repeat from *. 

No. IV. — Close Chain Stitch. 

Make a chain ; pass the needle through each loop 
of the chain, throwing the cotton over the needle 
and rmlling it through both the chain-loop and the 
one on the needle. 

Repeat this at every row (see Fig. IV.) The 
arrow shows where the hook has to pass to form the 
the next stitch. 

No. V. — Single Crochet. 

Single crochet (S. C) is worked in nearly the same 
way as the close-chain stitch (No. 4) already de- 
scribed. 

To make this stitch pull the cotton through the 
back loop of the chain ; throw the cotton over the 
needle and draw it through both loops on the needle. 
Repeat this with every row. The single crochet can 
also be worked by pulling the cotton through both 
loops of every stitch on the row. 




No. 1. 
Single Chain Stitch 



No. 3. 
Picot Stitch. 




No. 4. Close Chain Stitch. 



No. 5. Single Crochet. 



8 

No. VI. — Ribbed Crochet. 

This stitch consists in making a single crochet 
into the back part of each loop of the row last 
worked ; crochet backward and forward, turning 
the work at the end of every row, and making a 
chain-stitch before turning. 

No. VII.— Half Double Crochet. 

To work this stitch, throw the cotton over the 
needle, pass the hook into the back part of a loop, 
pull the cotton through it, throw the cotton over the 
needle, and pull it through the three loops on the 
needle. 

No. VIII. — Double Crochet. 

To make this stitch, throw the cotton over the 
needle once ; pass the hook into the back part of a 
loop ; pull the cotton through it ; throw the cotton 
again over the needle and pass it through both last 
loops on the needle ; throw the cotton over the needle, 
and draw it through the two remaining locps on the 
needle. The double crochet stitch is also worked by 
tlirowing the cotton — the first time — twice T or three 
times D. D. C. over the needle. 

No. IX. — Crossed Treble Stitch. 

Fig. IX. illustrates the crossed treble stitch when 
finished. Figs. X. and XI. illustrate the formation 
of the stitch. 




No. 6. Hibbed Crochet. 



No. 7. Half Double Crochet. 




No. 8. Double Crochet. 




No. 9. Cross Treble Stitch. 



10 

Make a Chain. 

Throw the cotton over the needle twice, pass the 
hook through the loop into which the first half of 
the crossed treble stitch has to be crocheted, throw 
the cotton over the needle, draw it through, throw 
the cotton over the needle again, and pass it through 
two loops on the needle. Three loops remain on the 
needle ; leave them untouched. Throw the cotton 
over the needle, miss the two next stitches of the 
foundation, and draw the cotton through the third 
one. Five loops are now on the needle. Throw the 
cotton over the needle and draw it through two loops 
at the same time, until only one loop remains on the 
needle. Crochet two chain stitches (or 1, 2 or 3, 
according as you wish the trebles nearer to, or farther 
from each other ; then you will also have to miss as 
many stitches on the foundation). Make one D. C, 
passing the hook through the two middle loops of 
the last finished treble, as is illustrated by an arrow 
in Fig. XI. 

No. XII. Shell Stitch. 

The foundation on which this stitch is made, can 
be worked with single crochet on the whole stitch 
of the row last worked. 

This shell stitclTwhich covers in height three rows 
of the foundation is made in D. C. and is worked as 
follows : 

Make a chain. 

2 rows of S. C. 

3d, row : 2 S. C, then, thejshell stitch as follows: 



11 




No. 10. Formation of Cross Treple Stitch. 




No. 11. Formation of Cross Treble Stitch. 




No. 12. Shell Stitch. 



12 

Throw the cotton once over the needle, take up 
Iboth right loops of the 3d stitch on the 1st row.* 
Throw the cotton over the needle and draw it 
through ; throw the cotton over the needle and draw 
only through two loops on the needle ; repeat twice 
from*. 

Four loops remain now on the needle. Throw the 
cotton over the needle and draw it through the four 
remaining loops. 

The stitch on the last row next to the shell stitch 
is never worked, The shell stitch is repeated after 
every 5 S. C, and alternated on every other row. 



No. XIII. Open Shell Stitch. 

The foundation on which the open shell stitch is 
worked, is made with the single crochet stitch. 

See Fig. V. 

The open shell stitch is worked with 5 D. C. on 
every other second row. A space of 5 S. C. must be 
worked between every two open shell stitches. 

To work the open shell stitch, leave the loop of the 
6th S. C. just worked, untouched on the needle, 
pass the needle through both vertical loops of that 
S. C. ; then pass it through the front loop of the cor 
responding stitch on the row before the last and 
make 5 D. C. through that loop, leaving the first 
loop on the needle, untouched, which will only be 
drawn through witli the two last loops of the 5th D. 
C. (See Fig. XIII.) After every open shell stitch 
miss the next S. G. 



13 




No. 13. Opbn Shell Stitch. 



14 

No. XIV.— Picots. 

This kind of Picot Stitch is in imitation of the 
woven lace. 

*Work : One S. C, making the loop a little large. 
This loop is left as a Picot in drawing the needle from 
it and passing the hook through the front loop of 
the S. C. just made ; then throw the cotton over the 
needle and draw it through. 

One S. C. 

Kepeat/ 4 from*. 

No. XV. — Upward Chain Picot Stitch. 

Work: 1. D. C. 

*7 chain stitches, one plain crochet in the second 
chain stitch. — (See Pig. XV.) Work one chain stitch, 
make one D. C. in the 4th S. C. of the last row 
worked. Repeat from*. 

No. XVI. —Downward Chain Picot Stitch. 

One works this stitch in the same way as No. 15, 
except that, after the seventh chain stitch, the 
needle must be drawn from the last loop and passed 
through the second loop of the chain. (See Pig. 16,) 
Then through the seventh loop ; throw the cotton 
over the needle and draw it through both loops on 
the needle. 



15 




No. 14. Picots. 




No. 15. Upward Chain Picot Stitch. 




No. 16. Downward Chain Picot Stitch. 



16 
DIFFERENT CROCHET STITCHES. 
No. XVII. — Victoria Stitch. 

This stitch is worked in rows, to and fro. 

Two rows form the pattern stitch. 

Make a chain of any desired length. 

1st Row : Work from right to left, taking up 
every chain loop, and leaving all the loops on the 
needle. 

2d Row : Work all the loops from the needle, 
from left to right, one at a time, by throwing the 
cotton over the needle and passing it through the 
new formed loop and the one on the needle. 

At the repetition of every 1st row, be careful in 
forming the stitch to raise the vertical front loop 
with the back loop. 

No. XVIII. — Gobelin Stitch. 

The Gobelin stitch is after the same style as the 
Victoria stitch. It is worked in rows back and 
forth. 

Make a chain. 

1st Row : Take up the chain loops, throwing 
every time the cotton over the needle before taking 
up one chain loop. 

2d Row : Work back, throwing the cotton over 
the needle and drawing it through two loops at a 
time (the worked loop and the overcast loop on the 
needle.) 

3d Row : Like the 1st row, only pass the needle 
through the horizontal loop of every stitch of the 
last row ; as the arrow* indicates in Fig. 18. 



17 




No. 17. Victoria Stitch. 




No. 18. Gobelin Stitch. 



18 

No. XIX — Double Gobelin Stitch. 

This stitch is worked with worsted of two shades. 

Make a chain. 

1st Row : Take up the chain stitches, alternating 
three dark ones with one light. 

2d Row : Work all the loops from the needle, 
drawing the dark worsted through the three dark 
loops, and the light worsted through the light loop. 

3d Row : *Take up the three dark, then the one 
light, etc. 

The first dark loop is formed in passing the hook 
through the loop, j ust be tween the light stitch and 
the first dark stitch of the preceding row. The star 
in the illustration shows where the hook passes to 
take up the second dark loop. The dot shows where 
the hook passes to form the third dark loop. 

4th Row : Work in the same manner as the sec- 
ond row. 

Repeat from *. 

No. XX. — Mussel Stitch. 

This stitch is worked with one or two different 
colors. In the latter the worsted is fastened at the 
beginning of every row. 

Make a chain. 

1st Row : * Take up a chain loop from the back 
of the stitch ; make a second loop on the needle by 
throwing the worsted over the needle ; make the 
third loop on the needle in working once more 
through the second chain stitch. 

Miss one chain stitch. 



19 




No. 19. Double Gobelin Stitch. 




7*^ QiTwTP"*- 

No. SO, Mussel Stitch. 



20 

Repeat from *. 

2d Row : Work back, * draw the worsted through 
three loops at a time. 

One chain stitch. 

Repeat from *. 

While working every first row of the pattern, 
always pass the needle through the back loop of 
every chain stitch of the second row (see Fig. 20,) 
where the loop to be worked through is marked by 
an arrow. 

Repeat first row, then second row. 

No. XXI. — Braided Stitch. 

This stitch is worked in the first row by throwing 
the worsted over the needle, before taking up the 
loop of every chain stitch. 

In the second row, work back, drawing the worsted 
through both the worked loop and the overcast loop 
on the needle. 

In working every first row of the pattern, always 
take up the worked loop on the right of the over- 
cast loop, in the last row worked, and the overcast 
loop together. (See Fig. 21, where the arrows show 
what loops to take up.) 

No. XXII. — Striped Stitch. 

Begin with a chain. 

1st Row :* Take up one chain stitch ; throw the 
worsted once over the needle ; take up the next 
chain stitch. Repeat from "? to the end of the row. 



21 




No. 21. Braided Stitch. 




No. 22. Striped Stitch. 



22 

In taking up the loops, always pass the needle 
through the middle back loops of the stitch. 

2d Row : Work back,* drawing the worsted 
through three loops or the needle ; that is, through 
the two loops and the one overcast loop in the 
middle. Make one chain stitch. Repeat from * to 
the end of the row. 

3d Row : * Take up the first of the three stitches 
drawn together in the last row, taking up the loop 
always from the back of the stitches, so that the long 
loop back of the three drawn together stitches may 
come in front (see letter a, Fig. 22). Take up the 
two next loops together from the back of the 
stitches (see letter b, in Fig. 22). 

Pass the needle now through the next chain loop 
of the row before the last worked (see letter c, of the 
same Fig.) 

Repeat from *. 

Then repeat alternately 2d row and 3d row. 

No. XXIII.— Fagot Stitch. 

To make this stitch, make a chain. 

1st Row : (Front.) Have one loop on the needle. 
Take up two chain stitches. * Throw the worsted 
over the needle and draw it through those three 
loops. 

Make two chain stitches. 

Take up once more the loop last taken up. Take 
up the next chain stitch. Repeat from *. 

2d Row : Turn the work. Take up a stitch, in 
passing the needle from back to front, through the 



23 




No. 23, Fagot Stitch. 



24 



loops underneath the second chain stitch ; then 
pass the needle from front to back through the two 
loops underneath the next second chain stitch (see 
Fig. 23.) Throw the worsted over the needle and 
draw it through the stitch. This new loop and the 
one already on the needle are drawn together. 

Repeat from *, being careful to pass the hook 
from back to front after having passed it from front 
to back. 

Repeat both first and second row. Single Crochet 
has to be worked in the upper loops of the last row. 



* 



CROCHET SERIES. No. 2. 



T WI N E 



Crochet V/ork, 



WITH ILL USTRA TIONS. 



f 

y 




~i\, . W* 



PRICE, 15 CENTS. 



PUBLISHED BY 

HEN-R"r BRISTOL 
296 Fulton St., Brooklyn, N, Y. 



TW I N E 



Crochet Work, 



WITH ILL US TR A TIONS. 




PUBLISHED BY 

SEiTRir :b:r,istow, 

296 Fulton St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, 

By HENRY BRISTOW, 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. 



SPECIAL NOTICE. 



We have in course of preparation a series 
of books on Crochet Work. The present num- 
ber is issued out of the regular order, in com- 
pliance with a very general demand for Lam- 
brequin designs. In about two weeks No. I will 
be issued, and is intended especially for beginners 
or those desirous of learning all the newest 
Crochet Stitches. This, as well as all of the 
series, will contain numerous illustrations. 



INTRODUCTION, 



The use of twine in fancy work has introduced a 
material that can be employed extensively in house- 
hold decoration, and has brought the crochet needle 
into greater requisition than ever before. Many of 
those articles that contribute so much to the attract- 
iveness of a home can be made of twine at com- 
paratively little cost. It can be had in colors and 
of different sizes, and on account of its durability, 
cheapness and beauty, is considered by, many 
superior to macrame work. By a judicious selection 
of shades, and a tasteful combination of trimmings, 
a large assortment of which are sold for that pur- 
pose, consisting of silk and plush balls of various 
shapes and colors, ribbon etc., a great variety of 
articles may be fashioned which are at once both 
beautiful and effective, such as, for instance, window, 
mantel, table, and bracket lambrequins, scarfs for 
chairs and tables, covers for sofa pillows and otto- 
mans, toilet and dinner mats, hand bags, etc., etc., 
etc. 



TWINE CROCHET WORK. 



Description of terms used in Crochet. 

Chain Stitch. — Make a loop of twine and draw 
the twine through each loop thus made, until the 
chain is of the required length. 

Single Stitch. — Insert the hook in loop of pre- 
ceding row, and draw twine through both loop and 
stitch at once. 

Double Crochet. — Put the hook in a stitch of the 
work, bring twine through, take up again, and 
bring it through two loops at once. 

Treble Stitch. — Turn the twine round the hook, 
put it in stitch of preceding row, bring twine 
through, then take it up, and bring it through two 
loops twice. 

Long Treble. — Turn the twine twice round the 
hook, work as treble stitch, bringing twine through 
two loops three times. 

Extra Long Stitch. — Turn twine three times 
round hook, bringing twine through loop two loops 
four times. 

Slip Stitch is only another name for chain stitch. 

* The above are the primitive or foundation 
stitches, of which all fancy stitches are mod- 
ifications or combinations. 



Twine. 

The best twine for crocheting is what is known as 
seine or macrame cotton twine, and is sold by num- 
bers, 6 and 9, the finer numbers, are used for tidies, 
etc. ; 12, 16 and 20 for lambrequins. Care should 
be takeD in purchasing the twine, to get the best 
quality as there are several grades made ; that 
having a cream color, bordering on ecru, makes the 
best work. 

Needles. 

A five inch bone needle, even and smooth, is con- 
sidered the best for crocheting with twine. 

Abbreviations used in Directions. 

St. Stitch. 

Ch. Chain stitch. 

SC. Single stitch. 

DC. Double stitch. 

TC. Treble stitch. 

L. TC. Long treble. 

Ex. L. TC. Extra long stitch. 

* — * means to repeat the directions between the 
stars as often as told, as, for example : * IDC. 1 ch. 
* 5 times, means to crochet 1 double stitch and lch. 
until you have 5 alternate double crochet stitches 
and 5 chain stitches. 



7 
Lambrequin Design No. 1. 




DIRECTIONS. 

Make any number of chain stitches divisible by 
9, half as long again as desired when finished, as it 
takes np in working. 

1st row. 

* 9 TC. in first 9 stitches of chain, 9 Ch. miss 8, 9 
TC. in next 9 ch. *, repeat to end of row, finishing 
with 9 TC. 

2d row. 

* 9 TC. 9 ch.*, repeat to end of row, finishing with 
9TC. 

3d row. 

* 9 TC. 4 ch., 1 DC. through 5th ch. of 2d and 3d 
row, drawing tightly together, 4 ch.*, repeat. 

4th row. 

* 9 TC, 9 ch.*, repeat. 
5th row. 

* 9 TC, 9 ch.*, repeat. 
6th row. 

* 9 TC, ch.*9, repeat. 



8 

7th row. 

* 9 TC. 4 ch. 1 DC. through 5th st. of chain of 5th 
and 6th row. 4 ch.* repeat. 

8th row. Repeat 5th row. 

9th row. TC. to end of row. 

Heading. * 6 TC. in 3d TC. miss 2, fasten on 3d, 
repeat. 

To finish it off on the bottom put * 10 L. TC. in 
5th TC. fasten to 9th TC, 9 SC. in chain,* repeat. 



Lambrequin Design No. 2. 




DIRECTIONS. 



Make a chain of 28 stitches. 

1st row. 

3 TO. in4thch., 3 ch., 3 TC. in next ch., 7 ch., 
miss 9 ch., put 3 TC. in 10th, 3 ch., 3 TC. in nextch., 
7 ch., miss 9 ch., put 3 TC. in 10th, 3 ch., 3 TC. in 
next ch. which should be the last st. of foundation 
ch. 

2d row . 

Turn, 3 ch., 3 TC. in loop made by 3 ch. in last 
row, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same loop, 7 ch., 3 TC. in next 
loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same loop, 7 ch., 3 TC. next 
]oop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 7 ch., fasten to end of 1st 
row, 12 DC. in loop made by the 7 ch. 

3rd row. 

1 ch., 3 TC. in last loop of 3 ch. in 2d row, 3 ch., 3 
TC. in same, 3 ch., 1 DC. through the middle stitch 
of the 7 ch. of 1st and 2d rows, 3 ch., 3 TC. in next 
loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 3 ch., 1 DC. through 



10 

middle stitch of next two ch., 3 ch., 3 TC. in loop, 
3 ch., 3 TC. in same. 

4th row. 

3 ch., 3 TC. in loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same loop, 7 
ch., 3 TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 
7 ch., 3 TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in.same, 7 ch. 
fasten to loop made by the 1 ch. at beginning of 3rd 
row, 12 DC. in 2d scallop. 

5th row. 

1 ch., 3 TC. in loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 7 ch., 3 
TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 7ch., 3 TC. in 
next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same. 

6th row. 

3 ch., 3 TC. in [loop, 3ch., 3 TC. in same, 7 ch., 
3 TC, 3 ch., 3 TC, 7 ch., 3 TC, 3 ch., 3 TC, 7 ch., 
fasten to loop made by the 1 ch. at beginning of 5th 
row, turn 6 DC, turn 7 ch., fasten in middle of 2d 
scallop at bottom of work, 7 ch., fasten in middle 
of next seal., turn, 12 DC. in 7 ch., 6 DC. in next 7 
ch., turn, 7ch., fasten in seal., turn, 12 DC. in 7 
ch., 6 DC in half finished seal., 6 DC. in next half 
seals., 1 ch., 3 TC. in loop of preceding row, 3 ch., 
3 TC. in same, 3 ch., 1 DC. through middle stitch of 
ch. of 5th and 6th rows, 3 ch., 3 TC. in next loop, 
3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 3 ch., 1 DC. in middle stitch of 
ch. of 5th and 6th rows, 3 ch., 3 TC. in next loop, 
3 ch., 3 TC. in same. 



11 



Lambrequin Design No. 3. 




DIRECTIONS. 



Make a chain of 30 stitches. 

1st row. 

3 TC. in 4th st. of chain, 3 ch., 3TC. in same (4th) 
stitch, 6 ch., miss 8 ch., pnt 3 TC. in 9th, 3 ch., 3 
TC. in same, miss 3 ch., put 3 TC. in 4th, 3 ch., 3 
TC. in same, 6 ch., 3 TC. in last of foundation chain, 
3 ch., 3 TC. in same. 

2d row. 

Turn, 3 ch., 3 TC. in loop formed by 3 ch. in pre- 
ceding row, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 6 ch., 3 TC. in next 
loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same loop, 3 TC. in next loop, 
3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 6 ch., 3 TC. in next loop, 3 
ch., 3 TC. in same. 3 ch. 

3rd row. 
, Turn, Crochet to end of row as before, then 3 ch., 
3 TC. in 3rd ch. of last row. 



12 

4tli row. 

3 ch., 3 TC. in 3 ch. of 3d row, 3 oh., 3 TC. in 
next 3 ch., 3 ch. ; repeat to end of, as before. 

5th row. 

3 ch., 3 TC. in 3 ch. of preceding row, 3 ch., 3 TC. 
in same, 6 ch., 3 TC. in next, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 
3 TC. in next, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 6 ch., 3 TC. in 
next, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 3 ch., 3 TC. in next 3 
ch., which is in the point, 3 ch., 3 TC. 

6th row. 

3 ch., 3 TC., 3 ch., 3 TC, 3 ch., finish to end of 
row as usual. 

7 th row. 

Crochet as usual to beginning of point, then 3 ch., 
3TC, 3. oh.-i 3TC, 3 ch., 3 u TC. 

8th row. 

3 eh., 3TC, etc. 

9th row. 

Crochet as usual to beginning of point, then 3 ch., 
3 TC, 3 ch., 3 TC, 3 ch., 3 TC, 3 ch., 3 TC. 

10 th row. 

3 ch., 3 TC, 3 ch., 3 TC, 3 ch., 3 TC, 3 ch., then 
as usual to the end, making it the required length, 
crochet as a heading, 7 TC. in 3 ch. at the top, 
fastening each one down before another. 



13 
Lambrequin Design No. 4. 



DIRECTIONS. 

Make a chain of 36 stitches. 

1st row. 

2 TC. in 4th st. of ch., 1 ch., 2 TC. in same (4th) 
St., miss 3 ch., put 2 TC. in 4th ch., 1 ch., 2 TC. in 
same st, 7 ch., miss 7 ch., put 2 TC. in 8th, 1 ch., 
2 TC. in same, miss 3 ch., put 2 TC. in 4th, 1 ch., 
2 TC. in same, 1 ch., miss 1 ch., put 1 TC. in next 
12 ch., 3 ch., 4 TC. in last st. of ch, 3 ch., 1 TC. in 
1 last st. of ch., 4 ch., and turn. 

2d. row. 

4TC. under last 3 ch. of 1st row, 3 ch., 4 TC. 
under next 3'ch. 3 ch., 10 TC. on last 10 TC. of 1st row, 
1 ch., 2 TC. in loop made by the 1 ch., between the two 
last 2 TC. in 1st row, 1 ch., 2 TC. in same loop, 2 TC. 
in next loop 1 ch., 2TC. in same 7 ch., 2 TC. in next 



14 

loop, 1 ch., 2 TC. in same, 2 TC. in next loop, 1 ch., 

2 TC. in same 3 ch., and turn. 
3d row. 

2 TC. in first loop of 2d row, 1 ch. 2 TC. in same 
loop, 2 TC. 1 ch. 2 TC, in next loop, 3 ch., 1 DC. 
through 4th st. of chain of 1st and 2d row, drawing- 
tightly together, 3 ch. 2 TC. in next loop, 1 ch. 2 TC. 
in same loop, 2 TC. in next loop, 1 ch. 2 TC. in 
same loop, 1 ch., 8 TC. in 8 TC. of preceding row, 

3 ch, 4 TC, under 3 ch, of preceding row, 3ch., 
4TC.,3ch.,4TC, 4 ch. 

4th row. 

4TC. in last stitch of 3d row, 3 ch. 4 TC, 3 ch., 

4 TC. 3 ch. 4 TC. 3 ch. 6 TC. in last 6 TC. of 3d row, 

1 ch. 2 TC. in loop, 1 ch. 2 TC in same loop, 2 TC. 
in next loop, 1 ch., 2 TC. in same loop, 7 ch., 2 TC 
in next loop, 1 ch. 2 TC in same loop, 2 TC. ri next 
loop, 1 ch. 2 TC. in same, 3 ch. 

5th row. 

2 TC, 1 ch., 2TC as before, 2 TC, 1 ch., 2 TC 
in next loop, 7 ch., 2 TC, 1 ch., 2 TC, 2 TC, 1 ch., 

2 TC, 1 ch., 4 TC on 4 TC. of preceding row, 3 ch., 
4TC. 3 ch.. 4 TC, 3 ch-, 4 TC, 3 ch., 4 TC, 3 ch. 
4 TC, 4 ch. 

6th row. 

4 TC. in last TC. of 5th row, 3 ch., 4 TC, 3 ch., 
4TC, 3 eh., 4TC, 3ch., 4 TC, 3 ch.. 4 TC, 3 ch., 
2 TC. in last 2 TC. of 5th row, 1 ch., 2 TC in next 
loop, 1 ch., 2 TC. in same loop, 2 TC. in next loop, 

1 ch., 2 TC. in same, 7 ch., 2TC in next loop, 1 ch., 

2 TC. in same 2 TC in last loop, 1 ch.,2TC in 
same, 3 ch. 

7th row. 

2 TC. in loop, 1 ch., 2 TC in same, 2 TC. in next 



15 

1 ch., 2 TC. in same, 3 ch. 1 DC. through 4th st. of 
last 2 ch., drawing tightly together, 3 oh., 2 TC. in 
next loop, 1 ch., 2 TC. in same, 2 TC. in next loop, 

1 ch., 2 TC, in same, 1 ch. 4 TC, 3 ch. 4 TC, 3 ch. 
4 TC, 3 ch. 4 TC, 3 ch. 4 TC, 3 ch. 4 TC, 4 ch. 

8th row. 

4 TC. under 3 ch. of tfth row, 3 ch. 4TC,3ch. 
4 TC, 3 ch. 4 TC, 3 Ch. 6 TC, 1 ch. 2 TC, in loop, 1 ch. 

2 TC. in loop, 2 TC. in next loop, 1 ch. 2 TC in 
same, 7ch. 2 TC. in next loop, 1 ch. 2 TC. in same, 
2 TC. in next loop, L ch., 2 TC. in same, 3 ch. 

9th row. 

2TC 1 ch., 2 TC. in loop, 2 TC. 1 ch.2TC in next 
loop, 7 ch. 2 TC, 1 ch. 2 TC. in loop, 2 TC. in next 
loop, 1 ch. 2 TC. in same, 1 ch. 8 TC, 3 ch. 4TC, 
3ch. 4TC, 3ch. 4 TC, 4 ch. 

10th row. 

4 TC. in last st. of 9th row, 3 ch., 4 TC, 3 ch. 10 
TC, 1 ch., 2 TC, 1 ch. 2 TC. in loop, 2 TC. lch., 
2 TC. in next loop, 7 ch. 2 TC, 1 ch. 2 TC. in loop, 
2 TC 1 ch. 2 TC. in last loop, 3 ch. 



16 



Lambrequin Design No. 5. 







DIEECTIONS. 



Make a chain of 40 stitches. 

1st row. 

3 TC. in 4th chain, 3 ch., 3 TC. in next St., 9 ch., 
miss 11, put 3 TC. in 12th ch., 3 ch., 3 TC. in next, 
miss 3 ch., put 1 TC. in each of next 3 ch., miss 3 ch., 
put 3 TC. in 4th 3 ch., 3 TC. in next, 9 ch., miss 11, 
3 TC. in 12th ch. , 3 ch., 3 TC. in last st. of chain, 
3ch. 

2d row. 

3 TC. in loop made by 3 ch. between the two 3 TC. 
of 1st row, 3 ch. 3 TC. in same, 4 ch., 1 SC. through 
5th st. of ch. in 1st row, 4th ch. 3 TC. in next loop, 
3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 1 TC. in each of the TC. of 1st 
row, 3 TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 4 ch., 
1 SC. through 5th st. of ch. of 1st row, 4 ch., 3 TC. 
in next loop, 3 ch. 3 TC. in same, 5 ch., fasten to 
beginning of preceding row, 10 DO. in loop made by 
the 5 ch. 



17 

Repeat these two rows until the desired length, 
then finish off the bottom with 12 L. TC. in loop 
made by 3 ch., at end of rows, always fastening be- 
fore beginning the next one. 



18 



Lambkequin Design No. 6. 




DIRECTION^. 

Make a chain of 35 stitches. 

1st row. 

3 TC. in 4th ch., 3 ch., 3 TC. in same st., fasten to 
3d st. of ch., 6 ch., miss 6 ch., 3 TC. in 7th, 3 ch., 3 
TC. in same, fasten to 3rd ch., 6 ch., miss 6, put 3 
TC. in 7th, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, fasten, 6 ch., 3 TC. 
in last st. of ch., 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 5 ch., and turn. 

2d row. 

3 TC. in loop made by the 3 ch. worked between 
the last 3 TC. in preceding row, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 
fasten 6 ch., 3 TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same 
loop, fasten, 6 ch. 3 TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in 
same loop, fasten, 6 ch., 3 TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 
TC. in same, work 6 ch., fasten to end of 1st 
row. 



19 

3rd row. 

*3 ch., 2 TC.* repeat 5 times,* putting all the TC. 
in the same large loop, then 1 ch., 3 TC. in the ]ast 
loop of 2d row, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, fasten, 6 ch., 3 
TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, fasten, 6 ch., 
3 TC. in. next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, fasten, 6 ch., 
3 TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same loop, fasten- 

4th row. 

5 ch., 3 TC. in first loop, 3 ch., 3 TC in same, fasten, 
6 ch., 3 TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, fasten, 
6 ch., 3 TC. in next loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, fasten,' 
6 ch., 3 TC. in last loop, 3 ch., 3 TC. in same, 3 ch., 
fasten over 1st TC. in large loop, repeat over every 
TC. in scallop, fasten last chain to little scallop in 
large scallop. 

5th row. 

In every loop made in the scallop of last row put 
1 SC, 3 TC, 1 SC, fasten each little scallop down 
singly, as much of the beauty of the work depends 
on the finish of these little scallops, then Avhen the 
body of the work is reached, begin again from the 
first row. 

For a heading fasten the twine to end of work, 
then crochet * 3 SC. on three middle stitches of the 
5 chain, 3 ch.,* repeat to end of the row. 

2d row. 

DC. to end. 

3rd row. 

Put 3 TC in 3rd stitch, miss 1, fasten to 2d, *3 TC. 
in second from the last, fasten to next but one,* re- 
peat to end of row. 



20 

Fringe. 

All the Lambrequin designs given are finished 
with a fringe, which is easily made, and the follow- 
ing directions will apply to all : Cut the twine twice 
the required length, double in center ; take two 
pieces together, put the needle through the stitch 
nearest the edge, and with the hook catch the twines 
in center and draw through until a loop is formed 
on the opposite side ; pass the needle through the 
loop and draw the four ends through, then pull 
tight. 



CaPYRKTHXED BY-DOMES TIC S.M.CO.NEW YORK TSTSZ. 




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IMHf li 1IW/III I1II11I, 



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lo. 3. 





Miscellaneous Designs 



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ILLUSTRATED. 



PRICE, 15 CENTS. 



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PUBLISHED BY 

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Miscellaneous Designs 



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ILLUSTRATED. 



COMPILED AND EDITED 

BY 

MARIE LOUISE KERZMAN. 



No,, 



PUBLISHED BY 

HENRY BRISTOW, 

296 Fulton St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 



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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, 

By HENRY BRISTOW, 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C- 



DESCRIPTION OF TERMS USED IN CROCDET. 



Chain Stitch. — Make a loop, throw the cotton 
around the needle and pass it through. Continue 
to throw the cotton around the needle and to draw 
it through the loop on the needle until the chain is 
of the required length. 

Close Chain Stitch. — Insert the hook in the loop 
of preceding row, and draw cotton through it and 
the loop on the needle at the same time. 

Single CrocJiet.—P&ss the hook through a loop of 
the last row, bring cotton through, throw cotton 
around the needle and pass it through the two loops 
on the needle. 

Double Crochet. — Throw cotton once around the 
needle, pass the hook through a loop of the preced- 
ing row, bring cotton through ;. then take cotton up 
and bring it through two loops twice. 

Half Doable Crochet.— -Like Double Crochet, only- 
pass the cotton through the three loops on the 
needle, instead of passing it through two loops 
twice. 

Treble. — Throw the cotton twice around the needle 
and work as Double Crochet, but bring cotton 
through two loops three times. 



Double Double Crochet. — Throw the cotton over 
the needle three times, work as Double Crochet, but 
draw the cotton through two loops four times. 

Picot. — Make a chain of a certain number of 
stitches and work a Single Crochet in the first chain 
stitch. 

Picots can be worked in different ways, which 
will always be explained in the directions of a pat- 
tern. 

Ribbed Crochet. — Make a Single Crochet in the 
back loop of each stitch of the row last worked. At 
the end of every row make a chain stitch and turn 
the work ; then begin the next row. 



ABBREVIATIONS USED IN DIRECTIONS. 

1 Loop. 

ch. st Chain Stitch. 

cl. ch. st Close Chain Stitch. 

s. c Single Crochet. 

d. c. Double Crochet. 

h. d. c Half Double Crochet. 

t Treble. 

d. d. c Double Double Crochet. 

p Picot. 

r. c Ribbed Crochet. 



SQUARES AND ROSETTES 



TIDIES, PILLOW-SHAMS AND BEDSPREADS, 



No. I.— SQUARE. 




This pattern is worked as follows : 

Make a chain of 9, join with a cl. ch. st. ; then 
work around the circle, as follows : 
- First row. — 14 ch. st. ; the first 5 will serve as first 
d. d. c. Alternate 3 times: 6 d. d. c. around the 



6 

circle, 9 cli. st. Then work next 5 d. d. c. around 
the circle ; 1 cl. ch. st. in the fifth of the first 14 
ch. st. 

Second row. — Work 1 s. c. in every stitch of the 
last row, yet make in each of the 4 corners 3 s. c. in 
the middle one of the 9 ch. st. of each corner. 
Finally, 1 cl. ch. st. in the first s. c. of this row. 

Third row. — Turn the work and crochet on the 
wrong side a row like the second row. Be careful 
to pass the hook through the back loops of every 
stitch. 

Fourth row. — Work on the right side 1 row like 
the 2 preceding rows. 

Fifth row. — Five ch. st. The first 3 will serve as 
1 d. c. ; Id. c. in the following third st. of the last 
row ; 2 ch. st. ; 2 d. c. separated by 5 ch. st. in the 
corner stitch of the last row. Then alternate con- 
stantly 2 ch. st.; 1 d. c. in every third st. of the last 
row, till the corner is reached. Then work again 2 
d. c, separated by 5 ch. st. in the corner stitch. 
Finally, make 1 cl. ch. st. in the third of the 3 ch. 
st. which stand for 1 d. c. of this row. 

Sixth row. — Like the fifth row, with the excep- 
tion that 7 ch. st. must be made between the 2 d. c. 
which have to be worked in the middle one of the 5 
ch. st. of every corner of the last row. 

The Seventh row to the Eleventh row, inclusive, 
are worked after the same directions in second row 
to fourth row, inclusive. 

Twelfth row.— Work according to directions of 
fifth row. 



No. II.— TIDY. 




This pattern is very pretty when worked with 
Macrame twine of fine number and of cream colored 
shade. It is worked as follows : 

Make a chain of 59. Work 3 d.c. in 2d ch.st. ; 3 
ch.st. ; 3 d.c. in same ; 1 d.c. in next 3d ch.st.; 3 d. 
c. in following 3d ch.st.; 3 ch.st.; 3 d.c. in same; *7 
ch.st.; miss 10 ch.st. of last row ; 3 d.c. in 11th ch. 
st.; 3 ch.st.; 3 d.c. in same ; 1 d.c. in 3d ch.st.; 3 d. 
c. in following 3d ch.st.; 3 ch.st.; 3 d.c. in same. 
Repeat from * 

Second row. — Turn; make 3 ch.st. ; * 3 d.c. aronnd 
next chain of 3 ; 3 ch.st.; 3 d.c. around same chain; 
1 d.c. in next d.c. of last row ; 3 d.c. around next 
chain of 3 ; 3 ch.st.; 3 d.c. in same chain ; 7 ch.st. 
Repeat twice from * 



Third row. — Like 2d row. 

Fourth row. — Turn; 3ch.st. ; * 3d. c. around next 
chain of 3 ; 3 ch.st. ; 3 d.c. in same chain ; 1 d.c. in 
following d.c. of last row ; 3 d.c. around next chain 
of 3; 3 ch.st.; 3 d.c. around same chain; 3 ch.st.; 
fasten in 4th st. of chains of 3d and 2d rows ; 3 ch. 
st. Repeat * 

At the end of the row make 3 ch.st.; 10 d.c. in 
the next chain of 3 coming on the side edge of the 
work; 3 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in last st. of foundation 
chain. 

Fifth row.— Turn ; 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c. and 1 ch.st. 
around every one of the 10 d.c. cluster; 2 ch.st.; 1 
s.c. around next chain of 3 ; 1 ch.st. Now go on 
working like 3d ro w. At the end of the row make 
3 ch.st.; 10 d.c. in next chain of 3 on the side edge 
of the work ; 3 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in next chain of 3. 

Sixth row. — Turn; 2 ch.st.; 1 d.c. and 1 ch.st. 
in every one of the 10 d.c. cluster ; 2 ch.st.; 1 s.c. 
around next chain of 3 ; 1 ch.st. Go on working 
like 3d row. Five rows form a pattern, and every 
pattern is worked like the rows already described. 

The border on each end edge of the tidy is worked 
as follows : 

*10 d.c. around first chain of 3 ; 1 ch.st.; miss 5 
st.; 1 s.c. in following loop ; 1 ch.st. ; miss 5; 10 d.c. 
in next stitch; 1 ch.st.; miss next 5 st.; 1 s.c. in 
following st.; 1 ch.st.; miss next 5 st. Repeat 
from * 



No. III.— SQUARE. 




This pattern is worked in rows to and fro in ribbed 
single crochet with open shells, and with a center- 
piece of d. c. and ch. st. 

Make a chain of 44. The First, Second, Third 
and Fourth rows are worked alike. Make 1 s. c. in 
every stitch of the last row, and crochet 1 ch. st. at 



10 

the beginning of every new row. This cli. st. rrrast 
always be left untouched. 

Fifth row.— Alternate 4 times 3 s. c. in the next 
3 st. of the last row, and 1 open shell made with 4 
d. c. in the back free loops of the next stitch in the 
row before the last. Always miss' the following 
stitch of the last row after having made the open 
shell. 

Make 6 s. c. in the 6 following stitches of ; the last 
row. In this manner the first half of the row is 
worked. Make the second half in the same man- 
ner, beginning by 6 s. c, then alternating 4 times ; 
1 open shell and 3 s. c. 

Sixth row. — Alternate 4 times : 3 s. c. in the next 
3 s. c. of the last row and 1 d. c in the next stitch 
back of the open shell in the row before the last. 
Make 6 s. c. in the next s. c. of the last row. 

Work the next half in the same way, only re- 
versed 6 s. c. Alternate 4 times : 1 d. c, 3 s. c. 

Seventh row. — 5 s. c. in the next 5 s. c. of tl\e last 
row. Alternate twice : 1 open shell in the next 
stitch of the row before the last, as described in the 
fifth row. Miss 1 st. ; make 3 s. c. in the next 3 s. c. 
of the last row ; then make 1 open shell in the next 
stitch of the row before the last ; miss 1 s. c; make 
8 s. c. in the next 8 st. of the last row. 

Reverse for the second half of the row. 

Eighth row. — 5 s. c. in the next 5 s. c. of the last 
row. Alternate twice : 1 d. c. in the following stitcli 
back of the open shell of the row before the last. 



11 

and 3 s. c. in the next 3 s. c. of the last row. Make 
1 d. c/in the following stitch of the row before the 
last, 8 s. c. in the next 8 s. c. of the last row. 

Reverse for the second half of the row. 

Ninth row. — Alternate 3 times : 3 s. c. in the next 
3 s. c. of the last row and 1 open shell in the follow- 
ing st. of the row before the last. Miss 1 s. c. 
Then work 10 s. c. in the following 10 s. c. of the 
last row. 

Reverse for the second half of the row. 

Tenth row. — Alternate 3 times : 3 s. c. in the next 
3~s. c. of the last row and 1 d. c. in the following 
stitch of the row before the last. Work 9 s. c. in 
the next 9 s. c. of the last row, 1 d. c. in the free 
loops (on the right side of the work) of the next 
stitch in the second row before the last. Miss the 1 
s. c. back of the d. c. just made. 

Reverse for the other half of the row. 

Eleventh row. — 5 s. c. in the next 5 s. c. of the 
last row ; 1 open shell in the next stitch of the row 
before the last ; miss 1 st. ; 3 s. c. in the next 3 s. c. 
of the last row ; 1 open shell in the following stitch 
of the row before the last ; miss 1 st. ; 12 s. c. in the 
next 12 s. c. of the last row. 

Reverse for the second half of the row. 

Twelfth row. — 5 s. c. in the next 5 s. c. of the last 
row ; 1 d. c. in the next stitch of the row before the 
last ; 3 s. c. in the next 3 s. c. of the last row ; 1 d. 
c. in the next stitch of the row before the last ; 9 s. 
c. in the next 9 s. c. of the last row ; 2 d. c. in the 
free loops of the next 2 st. of the second row before 
the last (on the right side of the work); miss the 2 



12 

s. c. back of the 2 d. c. ; make 1 s. c. in the follow- 
ing s. c. of the last row. 

Reverse for the second half of this row. 

Thirteenth row. — Alternate twice : 3 s. c. in the 
next 3 s. c. of the last row, and one open shell in 
the next stitch of the row before the last ; miss 1 s. 
c. ; make 14 s. c. in the next 14 s. c. of the last row. 

Reverse for the second half of this row. 

Fourteenth row. — Alternate twice : 3 s. c. in the 
next 3 s. c. of the last row and 1 d. c. in the following 
stitch of the row before the last ; 9 s. c. in the next 
9 s. c. of the last row ; 2 d. c. in the free loops of the 
following 2 st. on the second row before the last (on 
the right side of the Avork); miss 2 s. c. as described 
before ; make 2 s. c. in the following 2 s. c. of the 
last row ; 1 d. c. in the following stitch of the second 
row before the last; miss 1 s. c. back of the d. c. 
just made. 

Reverse for the second half of the row. 

Fifteenth row. — 5 s. c. in the next 5 s. c. of the 
last row, 1 open shell in the following stitch of the 
row before the last ; miss 1 s. c. ; 16 s. c. in the next 
16 s. c. of the last row. 

Reverse for the next half of the row. 

Sixteenth row. — 5 s. c. in the 5 s. c. of the last 
row ; 1 d. c. in the following stitch of the row before 
the last ; 9 s. c. in the next 9 s. c. of the last row ; 
2 d. c. in the following 2 st. of the second row before 
the last ; miss 2 s. c. ; 2 s. c. in the next 2 s. c. of 
the last row ; 2 d. c. in the following 2 st. of the 
second row before the last ; miss 2 s. c. ; Is. c. in 
the following s. c. of the last row. 



13 

Reverse for the second half of this row. 

Seventeenth row. — 3 s. c. in the next 3 s. c. of the 
last row ; 1 open shell in the following stitch of the 
row before the last ; miss Is. c. ; 18 s. c. in the next 
18 s. c. of the last row. 

Reverse for the second half. 

Eighteenth row. — 3 s. c. in the next 3 s. c. of the 
last row; 1 d. c. in the following stitch of the row 
before the last ; 9 s. c. in the next 9 s. c. of the last 
row ; 2 d. c. in the following 2 st. of the second row 
before the last ; miss 2 s. c. ; 2 s. c. in the following 
2 s. c. of the last row ; 2 d. c. in the following 2 St. 
of the second row before the last ; miss 2 s. c. ; 2 s. 
c. in the following 2 s. c. of the last row. 

f 3 ch. st.; miss 2 s. c. With this the greater 
half of this row is reached. 

To make the second half, reverse from f to the 
beginning. 

In the following rows, up to Thirty-fourth, inclu- 
sive, to work the second half of the row, reverse 
from f to the beginning of the row. 

Nineteenth row. — 1 s. c. in every stitch of the last 
row. 

Twentieth row.— 11 s.c. in the next 11 s.c. of the 
last row. Alternate twice : 2d. c. in the next 2 st. 
of the second row before the last ; miss 2 s. c. ; 2 s. 
c. in the following 2 s. c. of the last row. 

Work 3 ch. st. ; miss 3 s. c. of the last row ; f 1 
s. c. in the next s. c. 

Twenty-first row. — Is. c. in every stitch. 
- Twenty-second row. — 9 s. c. in the next 9 s. c. of 
the last row. Alternate twice : 2 d. c. in the next 



14 

2 st. of the second row before the last; miss 2 s. c; 
2 s. c. in the next 2 s. c. of the last row. 

3 ch. st. ; miss 8 s. c. ; 1 s. c. in the following s. c. f. 

3 ch. st. ; miss 3 s. c. 

Twenty-third row. — 1 s. c. in every s. c. 

Twenty -fourth row. — 7 s. c. in the next 7 s. c. of 
the last row. Alternate twice : 2 d. c. in the next 
2 st. of the second row before the last; miss 2 s. c; 
2 s. c. in the next 2 s. c. 

3 ch. st. ; miss 3 s. c. ; Is. c. in the following- s. c. 

3 ch. st.; miss 3 s. c. f. 

1 s. c. in the next s. c. 

Twenty-fifth row. — 1 s. c. in every s. c. 

Twenty-sixth row. — 5 s. c. in the next 5 s. c. of 
the last row. 

Alternate twice; 2d. c. in the next 2 st. of the 
second row before the last. 

Miss 2 s. c. ; 2 s. c. in the following 2 s. c. 

Alternate twice ; 3 ch. st. ; miss 3 s. c. ; 1 s. c. in 
the following s. c. f 

3 ch. st. ; miss 3 s. c. 

Twenty -seventh row. — 1 s. c. in every s. c. 

Work the 28th, 30th, 32d and 34th rows in the 
same way as the 24th, 22d, 20th and 18th rows ; yet, 
in the 34th row, make 1 s. c. in the 4th s. c. at the 
beginning of the row, and 1 s. c. in the 4th s. c. 
before the last at the end of the row. 

The middle chain must also be made with 2 ch. st. 
and miss 3 s. c. 

Work 29th, 31st and 33d rows in the same way as 
the 27th row. 



15 

Work 35th, 37th, 39th, 41st, 43d, 45th and 47th 
rows in the same manner as 17th, 15th, 13th, 11th, 
9th, 7th and 5th rows. 

Work 36th, 38th, 40th, 42d, 44th and 46th rows 
like 16th, 14th, 12th, 10th, 8th and 6th rows. Yet 
the number of s. c. and d. c. has to be regulated 
according to the position of the open shells and s.c. 

Forty-eighth row. — 1 s. c. in every s. c. of the last 
row, and 1 d. c. in every missed s. c. (back of an 
open shell) of the row before the last. 

Forty-ninth and 50th rows. — 1 s. c. in every s. c. 
of the last row. A border has now to be made, in 

2 rows, around the square. 1st row, 1 s. c. in every 
st. around the square. 2d row, 4 ch. st., the first 

3 will serve as the first d. c. ; then work alternately 
1 d. c. in the 2d s.c. of the last row, 1 ch.st. 

In the 1 s.c. of every corner make 3 d.c. each 
separated by 2 ch.st. 

Finally, make 1 cl. ch.st. in the 3d of the first 4 ch. 
st. of this row. 



16 
No. IV.— SQUARE. WITH RUSSIAN BRAID. 




This square may be used for tidies, pillow-sliams 
or bedspreads, and is worked on a wide, cream- 
colored, Russian braid ; that is, a braid having 
woven loops on both edges. 

Take 2 pieces of the braid of equal length with 
31 loops on each edge. Put them over each other 
in shape of a cross, as in illustration No. 4. Baste 
the center of the cross before beginning the crochet. 

First row. — * Make 13 s.c. along one end of the 
braid, taking in 1 loop of the braid ; make 5 ch.st.; 



17 

then 1 d.c. in each of the following loops, separating 
them by 1 ch.st., except in the bend of the cross 
where 2 d.c. follow each other; make 5 ch.st. Re- 
peat from * until the whole cross has been worked. 

Second row. — * 16 s.c. in the next 16 stitches of 
the last row; 43 ch.st.; 3 s.c. in the last 3 of the 5 
ch.st. coming before the next 13 s.c. Repeat 3 
times from *. 

Third row.- — 4 ch.st.; the first 3 will serve as the 
first d.c; then alternating constantly: 1 d.c. in the 
2d stitch of the last row, 1 ch.st. 

Finally 1 cl. ch.st. in the 3d of the first ch.st. of 
this row. 

Fourth row. — 1 s.c. in every stitch of the last row. 
Work also 3 s.c. in every corner stitch. 

Fifth row.— Like the third row. When the fifth 
row is worked, fasten the thread and break it. 

Sixth row.- — 1 d. d. c. in the following 5 of the 43 
ch. st. of the second row.* Alternating 4 times : 2 
ch. st., 1 d. d. c. in the next third st., 1 ch. st. ; miss 
the next 9 of the 43 ch. st., 1 d. d. c. in the follow- 
ing st. Repeat 3 times from *, but at the last repe- 
tition make 1 cl ch. f st., instead of 1 d. d. c. in the 
1st d. d. c. of this row. 

Seventh row. — *Work 11 s. c. in the next 11 st. of 
the last row ; 1 ch. st. ; miss the next 3 st. Repeat 
3 times from *. Finally, 1 cl. ch. st. in the 1st s. c. 
of this row. 

Eighth row. — *9 s. c. in the middle 9 of the 11 s. 
c. of the preceding row ; 1 ch. st. ; miss 3 st. Repeat 
3 -times from *. Finally, make 1 cl. ch. st. in the 
1st s. c. of this row. 



18 

Ninth, 10th, 11th and 12th rows are worked in the 
same manner as the 2 last rows, but they have a de- 
crease of 2 s. c. on each side of the little square. 
Hence, the 9th row has 7 s. c. ; the 10th, 5 s. c. ; the 
11th, 3 s. c. ; and the 12th, 1 s. c. 

Fasten the thread and break it. 

The 3 remaining squares are made in the same 
manner. 



19 



]N T o. V.— ROSETTE. 




Make a chain of 16 ; join by means of 1 cl. ch. st. 

First row. — 5 ch. st., which serve as the first 
treble ; 2 ch. st. ; 15 t. (each separated by 2 ch. st.) 
in every st. of the foundation ; 2 ch.st. ; 1 cl.ch.st. 
in the 5th of the 1st 5 ch.st. 

Second row. — 3 s.c. around every 2 ch.st. of the 
last row. Finish with 1 cl.ch.st. in the 1st s.c. of 
this row. 

Third row. — 5 ch. st., which will serve as 1st 
treble ; 2 t. in the next st. of the last row. Do not 
yet draw the last loops together. 1 t. in the follow- 
ing stitch, draw the last loops together with the last 
loops of the 2 preceding trebles. * 5 ch.st.; 1 t. in 
the next st. ; 2 t. in the following stitch ; do not yet 
draw the last loops together ; 1 t. in the next stitch, 
draw the last loops of this treble with the last loops 



20 

of the 2 preceding trebles together. Repeat 14 
times from *. Make 5 ch.st. ; 1 cl.ch.st. in the 5th 
of the first 5 ch. st. of this row.' 

Fourth row. — 1 s.c. around the upper loops of the 
next treble of the last row ; 8 s.c. around the fol- 
lowing 5 ch.st. *1 s.c. around the upper loops of 
the next trebles drawn together ; 4 s.c. around the 
following 5 ch.st. ; 7 ch.st. ; join with a slip stitch to 
the 5th of the 8 s.c. already worked ; 11 s.c. around 
the last 7 ch.st.; 4 s.c. around the same 5 ch.st. 
around which the preceding 4 s.c. have been worked; 
1 s.c. around the upper loops of the next t.; 4 s.c. 
around the following 5 ch. st. ; 7 ch.st.; join to the 
first of the 4 s.c. before the last ones of this row ; 6 
s.c. around the 7 ch.st.; 9 ch.st.; join to the 6th of 
the last worked 11 s.c. ; 15 s.c. around the last 9 ch. 
st. ; 5 s. c. around the same 7 ch. st. around which the 
preceding 6 s.c. have been worked ; 4 s.c. around the 
same 5 ch.st. of the last row, around which 4 s.c. have 
been worked. 

Repeat 7 times from *. 

At every repetition the first joining must be made 
to the 1st of the last 4 s.c. of the preceding pattern ; 
and at the last repetition, before working the last 7 
ch.st., make 4 cl.ch.st. instead of 4 s.c. in the next 4 
of the first 8 s.c, and leave the last 4 s.c. untouched. 



21 



No. VI.— ROSETTE. 




Make a chain of 8 ; join with a cl.ch.st. 

First round. — 16 s.c. around the circle, then 1 cl. 
ch.st. in the 1st s.c. of this round. 

Second round. — 1 s.c. in every stitch of the pre- 
ceding round ; then 1 cl.ch.st. in the 1st s.c. of this 
round. 

Third round. — 4 ch.st.; the first 3 will serve as 
1 d.c. Alternate 1 d.c. in the next stitch of the 
last round, 1 ch.st., until the end of the circle is 



22 

reached. Then 1 cl.ch.st. in the 3d of the first 3 
ch.st. of this round. 

Fourth round. — Work through the front loops of 
the stitches; * 1 s.c. around the next ch.st. of the last 
round; 11 ch.st. Working back on them, miss 
1 ch.st., and make 1 s.c, 1 h.d.c, 8 d.c. in the next 
10 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the next ch.st. of the last 
round. 

Repeat 7 times from * 

Fifth round. — * 8 d.c; 1 h.d.c; 1 s.c. in the first 
10 of the next 11 ch.st. of the last round ; 1 cl.ch.st. 
in the next stitch; 10 s.c in the following 10 stitches; 
1 s.c around the upper loops of the next s.c 

Repeat 7 times from * 

Sixth and seventh rounds.— Work like the 4th 
and 5th rounds ; yet make the s.c around .the back 
loops of the 3d round, so that the leaves might meet. 
At the last repetition of the pattern, in the 7th round, 
work only up to the cl.ch.st. at the point of the last 
leaf. 

Eighth round.- — Alternate 7 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the 
cl.ch.st. which has been worked in the point of the 
next leaf ; 6 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the cl.ch.st. on the 
point of the next leaf. 

Ninth round. — Like the 3d round. 

Tenth round. — 6 ch.st.; the 3 first will serve as 
1 d.c; 1 d.c. in the same stitch in which the last 
stitch of the last round has been worked. 

Alternate 19 times ; 3 ch.st. ; miss 5 st. ; 2 d.c, sep- 
arated by 3 ch.st. in the next stitch. Finish with 
1 ch.st., 1 d.c. in the 3d of the first 3 ch.st. of this 
round. 



23 

Eleventh round. — * 4 ch.st. ; 1 d.c. in the middle 
one of the next 3 ch.st. of the last round ; 3 p., con- 
sisting of 5 ch.st. and 1 s.c. in the firstof them. Make 
1 s.c. in the d.c. last worked, 4 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the 
middle one of the next 3 ch.st. Repeat from '*. In 
finishing, makel cl. ch.st. instead of the 1 s.c. in the 
last d.c. of the preceding round. 



24 
No. VII.— BOSETTE. 




This rosette is worked with medallion braid, as in 
illustration. It is worked from the center, as fol- 
lows : Make a chain of 16 ; join with 1 cl.ch.st. 

First round. — 3 ch.st., which will serve as 1 d.c. ; 
1 d.c. in the same stitch in which the cl.ch.st. has 
been worked; * 19 ch.st. ; 1 s.c. in the last d.c. ; 4 d.c. 
in the next 2 ch.st. of the foundation. 

Repeat 7 times from * 

At the last repetition, make 2 d.c. instead of 4 in 



25 

the ch.st. of the foundation, and work 1 cl.ch.st. in 
the 3d of the 3 cli.st. of this round. 

Second round. — 2 cl.ch.st. in the next 2 st. of the 
last round; 7 cli.st. , of which the first 4 will serve as 
1 t, 

* Alternate 3 times : 1 1. in the following 3d st. ; 3 
ch.st. ; next work 1 t. in the same stitch in which the 
last t. has been made. 

Alternate 3 times: 3 ch.st., 1 t. in the following 
3d st. Work next 1 t. in the first of the next 19 ch. 
st.; 3 ch.st. Repeat from *, but work the last time 
1 cl.ch.st. in the 4th of the first 4 ch.st. of this row, 
instead of making 1 t. and 3 ch.st. 

The center is now finished. Fasten the thread 
and break it. 

Take a medallion braid with 16 medallions, fasten 
both ends of the braid, and work on one edge the 
third round as follows : 

Third round. — * 6 s.c. around the division be- 
tween the 2 medallions; 17 ch.st.; 1 d.d.c. in the 
edge of the next medallion; 3 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the 
edge of the same medallion; 3 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the 
edge of the next medallion; 2 ch.st.; join to the first 
of the 3 ch.st. worked before; 1 ch.st.; 1 d.d.c. in 
the edge of the same medallion; 2 ch.st.; join to 
the 16th of 17 cli.st. worked before ; 15 ch.st. Re- 
peat from *; make at the end 1 cl.ch.st. in the first 
s.c. of this round. 

Fourth round. — 5 ch.st.; the first 3 will serve as 1 
d.c; then go on alternating: 1 d.c. in the following 
3d st. of the last round, 2 ch.st. 



26 

Make at the end 1 cl.ch.st. in the 3d of the first 3 
ch.st. of this round. 

Fifth round.— 10 ch.st.; the first 5 will serve as 1 
d.d.c; 1 d.c. in the 3d of the 10 ch.st. last worked; 
* 1 d.d.c. in the following 5th stitch of the last round; 
5 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the middle loop of the last worked 
d.d.c. 

Repeat from *, making at the end 1 cl.ch.st. in 
the 5th of the first 5 ch.st. of this round. 

Sixth round. — 2 cl.ch.st. in the next 2 st. of the 
last round ; 1 s.c. in the following st.; * 2 ch.st. 

Alternate twice: 1 t., 2 ch.st., 1 d.d.c. 

Alternate twice : 2 ch.st., 1 t. in the middle one of 
the next 5 ch.st.; 2 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the middle 
one of the next 5 ch.st. 

Repeat from *, but at the end make 1 cl.ch.st., 
instead of 1 s.c. in the first s.c. of this round. 

Fasten the thread and break it. 

Work on the other edge of the braid as follows : 

Seventh round. — * 5 s.c. around the next division 
between two medallions ; 9 ch.st.; 1 d.c. (as in illus- 
tration) in the edge of the next medallion ; 3 ch.st.; 
"1 s.c. in the same medallion ; 1 cl.ch.st. in the next 
medallion; 2 ch.st.; join to the first of the 3 ch.st. 
worked before. Work 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the same 
medallion; 1 ch.st.; join to the 8th of the 9 ch.st. 
already worked. Make 8 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. Finally, make 1 cl.ch.st. in the 
first s.c. of this round. 

Eighth round. — Both pieces now have to be joined. 

Make 2 cl.ch.st. in the next 2 st. of the last round; 
5 ch.st.; the first 3 will serve as 1 d.c. 



27 

* Alternate 7 times : lie. in the next 3d st.; 2 
ch.st. After the 7th time join to the middle stitch 
of the next point of the center rosette ; 2 ch.st.; 1 
cl. ch.st. in the preceding d.c; 2 ch.st. Repeat 
from *. Make at the last repetition 1 cl. ch.st. in 
the 3d of the 3 ch.st., which serve as 1 d.c. 

The last 2 ch.st. remain imtonched. 



28 



Nos. VIII-X.— SQUARES AND BORDER 
FOR BEDSPREADS. 



No. VIII. — Square for Bedspread. 




The square No. VIII is worked with wliite cotton. 
The stripes which run through the pattern are 
worked with Turkey red cotton. 

DIRECTIONS. 

Make a chain of 58 and work to and fro 3 rows of 
ribbed single crochet. 

Fourth row. — 2 ch.st., which will serve as 1 d.c. ; 
miss 1 st. of the last row ; 3 d.c. in the next 3 st. 



Alternate 9 times: 2 ch.st.; miss 2 St.; 4 d.c. in" 
the next 4 st. 

Then repeat 7 times the 1st, 2d, 3d and 4th rows, 
and work 3 rows more in ribbed single crochet. 

The last row, however, is worked after having 
passed the stripes through, as each end of every 
stripe has to be crocheted in. The beginning of the 
stripe has to be sewn to the back of the foundation. 

To work the stripes, take the Turkey red cotton 
and make a chain of 3 ; miss the last and crochet 2 
s.c. in the following 2 ch.st. * Turn the work, 
make 1 ch.st.; 2 s.c. in the back loops of the next 2 
st. of the last row. 

Repeat from * until the desired length is reached. 

Nine stripes are required for every square. 

Pass the stripes through the square, according to 
illustration No. 8. 



30 



'No. IX. — Square for Bedspread. 




No. IX pattern is worked with white cotton only. 

Make a chain of 59. 

'Work to and fro as follows : 

First row. — Miss 1 stitch ; make 58 s.c. in the next 
58 ch.st, 

Second row. — 1 ch.st. ; 58 s.c. in the following 58 st. 
of the last row, passing the hook through the back 
loops of the stitches. All s.c. in the continuation of 
the work must be made in the back loops of the 
stitches. 

Third row. — Work in the same manner as the 
preceding row. 



31 

Fourth row. — 1 eh.st.; 4 s.c. in the next 4 st. of 
the last row ; 50 d.c, worked in relief in the follow- 
ing 50 stitches. 

To make this d.c. in relief, take up the back loop 
of the next stitch, throw the cotton over the needle 
twice, pass the hook through a loop on the second 
row before the last (which will here be the first row), 
corresponding with the loop just taken up of the 
last row ; draw the cotton through the loop, then 
through every 2 remaining loops. Work next 4 
s.c. in the last 4 st. of the last row. 

Fifth row. — Work in the same manner as the 
second row. 

Sixth row. — 1 eh.st.; 4 s.c. in the next 4 st. of the 
last row ; 4 d.c. in relief in the next 4 st., but in- 
stead of passing the hook through the loop of the 
second row before the last, as already described, 
pass it through the upper perpendicular loop of the 
d.c. of the row before the last. 

Make next 42 s.c. in the next 42 st. ; 4 d.c. in re- 
lief in the next 4 st. ; 4 s.c. in the last 4 st. 

Eighth row. — 1 eh.st.; 4 s.c. in the following 4 
st.; 4 d.c. in relief in the next 4 st. of the last row 
and of the row before the last ; 4 s.c. in the follow- 
ing 4 st.; 11 d.c. (as described in the 4th row) in the 
next 11 st. of the last row and of the second row 
before the last ; 11 s.c. in the next 11 st. ; 11 d.c, as 
before, in the following 11 st. ; 5 s.c. in the next 5 
st.; 4 d.c. as before in the following 4 st. ; 4 s.c. in 
the next 4 st. 

Tenth row. — Work like the 8th row. The d.c. in 
relief are made as described in 6th row. 



32 

Twelfth, 13th, 14th, 15th, 16th, 17th and 18th 
rows. — Work in the same manner as described in 
the preceding row. 

Twentieth row. — 1 ch.st. ; 4 s.c. in the next 4 st. 
of the last row ; 4 d.c. in relief, as last described in 
the following 4 st. ; 15 s.c. in the next 15 St.; 11 d.c. 
in relief, as described in the 4th row, in the next 11 
st. of the preceding row and the 2d row before the 
last ; 16 s.c. in the next 16 st. ; 4 d.c, as before, in 
the next 4 st. ; 4 s.c. in the last 4th st. 

Twenty-second, 23d, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th, 28th, 
29th and 30th rows are worked like the preceding 
row. The d.c. in relief are worked as described in 
the 6th row. 

Thirty-second to 42d rows, inclusive. — Work like 
the 8th to 18th rows. 

Forty-fourth row. — Like the 6th row. 

Forty-sixth row. — Like the 4th row. When the 
required number of squares has been worked, join 
them together alternately with s.c. stitch, on the 
wrong side, in so many long stripes. 

Then crochet 3 rows of ribbed crochet on each 
edge of each stripe. When this is done, join the 
stripes to each other on the wrong side. 



No. x. — Border for Bedspread. 




This border is worked as follows : 

First row. — Alternate 2 d.c. in the next 2 st. on 
the edge of the bedspread ; 2 ch.st.; miss 2 st. 

Second to 6th rows, inclusive.— Work in ribbed 
crochet. 

Break the cotton. 

Seventh row.—* Make 9 ch.st.; join with a slip 
stitch to the following 9th. st of the last row. Go- 
ing back on the 9 ch.st., make 1 s.c; 1 h.d.c.; 3 d. 
c. ; 4 t. Make a chain of 9 ; join to the following 
9th st. of the last row. Going back on the 9 ch.st., 
make 1 s.c; 1 h.d.c; 3 d.c; 4 t. Make a chain of 
9 ; join to the same 9th st. into which the last chain 



34 

has been joined. Going back on the chain, work 1 
s.c; 1 h.d.c; 3d.c; 4t. 

Repeat from * 

Eighth row. — * 10 ch.st. ; going back on them, 
make 1 s.c. ; 1 h.d.c; 3 d.c. ; 4 t. Join between the 
two points of the last row. Make a chain of 9 ; 
join in the tenth ch.st. of the point last made. Go- 
ing back, work 1 s.c; 1 h.d.c; 3 d.c; 4 t. Fasten 
between the 2 next points of the last row. Make a 
chain of 10. Going back, miss one, make 1 s.c; 1 
h.d.c; 3 d.c; 4 t. Join between the two next 
points. Repeat from *. 

Break the thread. 

Ninth row. — Alternate 1 s.c. in the point standing 
alone ; 8 ch.st.; 1 s.c in the middle of the next 2 
points coming together ; 8 ch.st. 

Tenth to 13th rows.— Work to and fro with ribbed 
crochet. 

Fourteenth row. — Alternate 1 s.c. in the next 
stitch of the last row ; 13 ch.st. Going back on the 
first 12, make 1 s.c; 1 h.d.c; 10 d.c; miss the next 
3 st. of the last row ; make 1 cl. ch.st. in the 4th s.c. 

Break the cotton. 

Fifteenth row. — Alternate 1 s.c. in the next point; 
3 ch.st. Finally, make 1 cl. ch.st. in the first s.c of 
this row. 

Sixteenth row. — 8 ch.st. The first 3 will serve as 
the first d.c 

Alternate 1 d.c. in the next s.c of the last row ; 5 
ch. st. Finally, 1 cl. ch.st. in the third ch.st. of the 
first d.c. of this row. 



35 

Seventeenth row. — 2 cl.ch.st. in the next 2 st. of 
the last row ; 1 s.c. in the following stitch : *6 ch. 
st.; 2d.c. in the middle one of the next 5 ch.st. ; 9 
ch.st. ; 1 s.c. in the d.c. last worked; .1 d.c. in the 
same stitch in which the last 2 d.c. have been 
worked; 6 ch. st. ; 1 s.c. in the middle one of the 
next 5 ch.st. Repeat from *. Finally, make 1 cl.ch. 
st., instead of 1 s.c, in the first s.c. of this row. 



36 
Nos. XI-XIL— BEDSPREAD. 



No. XI. — Square for Bedspread, Pillow-Sham 
or Tidy. 




This bedspread is made in squares, joined to each 
other, having four leaves and rosettes. 

The squares are joined to the picots by means of 
a slip stitch. 

For each one of the leaves make a chain of 20. 
Going back on them, work as follows : Miss 1 ch. 
st.; 18 s.c. in the next 18 ch.st. on one side of the 
chain ; 3 s.c. in the first ch.st. Then 16 s.c. in the 
16 remaining chain loops on the other edge of the 
chain. *1 ch.st. Turn the work. Going back on 
the preceding stitches, make 17 s.c. in the back 



37 



loops of the next 17 stitches. AH s.c. will be made 
in passing the hook in the back loops of the stitch. 
Make 3 s.c. in the middle one of the last 3 s.c. 
coming together ; 16 s.c. in the next 16 st. Repeat 
6 times from *> and then repeat once more nntil the 
3 s.c, worked in 1 loop, have been reached. 
Fasten the thread and break it. 



No. XII. — Square belonging to No. XI. 




The following 3 leaves are made in the same man- 
ner. At the end of the fourth leaf, in order to 
fasten the leaves together, make 1 ch.st., 1 cl.cli. 



38 

st. in the stitch of the next leaf. Repeat this 4 
times. 

Each rosette is worked as follows : Make a chain 
of 4. Join with 1 cl.ch.st. 

First round. — 2 s.c. in every ch.st. 

Second round. — 2 s.c. around every s.c. of the 
last round. 

Third round. — 8 ch.st., the first 3 will serve as the 
first d.c. Alternate 7 times : 1 d.c. around the sec- 
ond st. of the last round ; 5 ch.st. Finally, 1 cl.ch. 
st. in the third of the first 3 ch.st. of this round. 

Fourth round. — * 3 ch.st. ; 1 d.c. in the middle one 
of the next 5 ch. st. of the last round. 1 cluster of 3 
picots. (The picot is made in 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the 
last worked d.c.) 

Make 3 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the next d.c. Repeat 
7 times from * 

Fasten the thread and break it. 

Then work around the edge of the 4 leaves : * 1 
s.c. in the thirteenth s.c, counting from the middle 
end of the leaf. 

f 1 ch.st.; 1 p. (making 5 ch. st. and 1 s.c. in the 
first of them); 1 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the next point of 
the leaf. Repeat 4 times from f But, when coming 
to the middle stitch of the third picot, join to the 
middle st. of the next p. of the rosette. 

Work next 1 ch.st.; lp.; 1 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the 
same point in which the preceding s.c. has been 
worked. 

fl ch.st.; 1 p.; 1 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the next point. 
Repeat 3 times from f, joining the ninth p. to the 
next p. of ohe next rosette. 



39 

Make 1 ch.st.; I p.; 1 cli.st.; 1 s.c. in the follow- 
ing fourth stitch ; 2 ch.st. ; 1 p., joining it to the fol- 
lowing p. of the same rosette. Repeat 3 times from 
*, joining at every repetition the third p. to the next 
p. of the same rosette, which has been joined last ; 
and at the last repetition, join the ninth p. to the 
last p. of the rosette which has been joined first. 

In this way, 1 square is already made. Each next 
square is made in the same manner, joining the 
picot of the square to the corresponding picot of 
the rosette, as is shown in illustration XI. 

Then a picot pattern is also worked in the center 
of the 4 rosettes, coming together as follows : 

Starting from the middle st. of the p. of a rosette, 
makef 2 cli.st. ; 1 p.; 2 ch.st. Join to the p. of the 
next rosette. See illustration XI. Repeat 3 times 
from f At the last repetition, make 1 cl. ch.st. in 
the stitch from where one started first, instead of 
making a slip stitch. 

The picot on the point of the leaves has to be 
joined by another picot to the corresponding picot 
on the point of the leaf belonging to the other 
square. To do this, start from the middle stitch of 
the first p. mentioned; make 2 ch.st.; then join by a 
slip stitch, 2 ch.st. and 1 cl. ch.st. in the st. from 
where one started. Then work from the next point 
of the leaf; 1 ch.st.; 3 p.; 1 ch.st.; join to the 
cluster picot of the rosette ; 2 ch.st.; 1 p.; 2 ch.st.; 
join to the opposite cluster picot of a rosette ; 1 ch. 
st. ; 3 p. ; 1 ch.st. ; join to the corresponding picot of 
the leaf belonging to the opposite square; 2 ch.st.; 
1 p.,; 2 ch.st.; 1 cl. ch.st. in the stitch from where 
one started. 



CROCHET SERIES. No. 4. 



m&~ ^ -•*% 

FINE 



DESIGNS FOR 



LACE EDGINGS, INSERTIONS, ETC. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



PRICE, 15 OEISTTS. 




PUBLISHED BY 

HENRY BRISTOW, 
296 Fulton St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 



-*=?5 



~.:-A\ 



FINE 



0^.0 (Ss^T W0^£ 



DESIGNS FOR 



LACE EDGINGS, INSERTIONS, ETC. 



ILLUSTRATED. 






COMPILED AND EDITED 



MARIE LOUISE KERZMAN. 



PUBLISHED BY 

HENRY BRISTOW 

296 Fulton St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 




k cOPYRlGHr*^V 

27)mj 

p 



PREFACE. 



Crochet work, in its modern and improved form,, 
lias arisen to the dignity of an art, and the wonder- 
ful work produced by the crochet needle rivals in 
beauty a]l the rich effects of old point lace. 

This, the fourth number of our Series, treats more 
especially the finer grades of crochet work, requir- 
ing more skill on the part of the operator. 

Our description of terms used, etc., it should be 
borne in mind, are written in harmony with the 
very full directions found in No. 1 of the Series. 
Any difficulties encountered can be easily solved 
by referring to that number. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, 

By HENRY BRISTOW, 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, "Washington, D. C. 



DESCRIPTION OF TERMS USED IN CROCHET, 



Chain Stitch. — Make a loop, throw the cotton 
around the needle and pass it through. Continue 
to throw the cotton around the needle and to draw 
it through the loop on the needle until the chain is 
of the required length. 

Close Chain Stitch. — Insert the hook in the loop 
of preceding row, and draw cotton through it and 
the loop on the needle at the same time. 

Single Crochet. — Pass the hook through a loop of 
the last row, bring cotton through, throw cotton 
around the needle and pass it through the two loops 
on the needle. 

Double Crochet. — Throw cotton once around the 
needle, pass the hook through a loop of the preced- 
ing row, bring cotton through, then take cotton up 
and bring it through two loops twice. 

Half Double Crochet. — Like double crochet, only 
pass the cotton through the three loops on the 
needle, instead of passing it through two loops 
twice. 

Treble. — Throw the cotton twice around the needle, 
^and work as double crochet, but bring cotton through 
two loops three times. 



Double Double Crochet. — Throw the cotton over 
the needle three times, work as double crochet, but 
draw the cotton through two loops four times. 

Picot.— Make a chain of a certain number of 
stitches, and work a single crochet in the first chain 
stitch. 

Picots can be worked in different ways, which will 
always be explained in the directions of a x^attern. 

Ribbed Crochet. — Make a single crochet in the 
back loop of each stitch of the row last worked. 
At the end of every row make a chain stitch and 
turn the work ; then begin the next row. 

Slip Stitch. — This stitch is used in joining. Take 
the hook from the last loop worked, pass it through 
the loop where the work has to be joined; then take 
the first loop spoken of and draw it through. 



ABBREVIATIONS USED IN DIRECTIONS. 

1 Loop. 

ch. st Chain Stitch. 

el. ch. st Close Chain Stitch. 

s. c Single Crochet. 

d. c Double Crochet. 

h. d. c Half Double Crochet. 

t Treble. . 

d. d. c ....... . Double Double Crochet. 

p Picot. 

r. c Ribbed Crochet. 

si. st ................ . ...Slip Stitch. 



INSERTIONS AND LACES. 



Nos. 1-4. — Insertions. 

These insertions, as is shown by the illustrations, 
are worked in d.c. and ch.st. Their pattern is 
formed by the position of the d.c. stitches, and the 
spaces are made by the chain stitches. Each row 
has the same number of stitches as the preceding- 
one. In order to make a, close and even work, use 
a fine crochet needle. 




No. 1. Insertion. 




No. ;?. Insertion. 





No. 5. — Lace Edging, with Serpentine Braid. 



J - ,,. 

li! . '::. 

1 ' 


r 1 - »*. «■»", 


»^i-»"»t ■uj'.uj 




No. 5 is worked as follows : 

1st. row. — * 1 1. on the point of the braid ; 4 ch.st. ; 
1 s.c. in the bend of the braid next to the point just 
worked; 4 ch.st. Repeat from *. 

2d row. — * 1 t. in the t. of the last row ; 3 ch.st. ; 1 
t. in the same t. of the last row. 

Repeat from *. 



No. 6. — Insertion, with Serpentine Braid. 




No. 6 is worked in the same way as No. 5, only 
the braid is worked on both sides. 



No. 7. — Lace with Tape Trimming. 




This pattern is worked on tape trimming. 

1st row. — 1 t. in every point of the tape trimming ; 
4 ch.st. ; 1 t. in the same point. 

2d row. — Work in the 4 ch.st. of the last row : 1 
3...C, 1 t., 1 d.d.e., 1 picot made with 5 ch.st. and 1 
d.c. in the 1st of the ch.st.; 1 d.d.c, It., 1 d.c; 
then make always I single stitch between the 2 t. of 
the last row. 



No. 8. — Border, with Serpentine Braid. 




Make * 5 ch.st. ; take the last loop from the needle 
and pnll it with the hook through the next point of 
the braid. Then work back on the 5 ch.st. as 
follows : 

1 s.c; 1 h.d.c; 2 d.c; It 

Repeat from *. 



>. 9. — Insertion, with Serpentine 




No. 9 is worked in the same way as No. 8, but on 
both sides of the braid. 



No. 10. — Lace Insertion, with Medallion and 
Feather-Edge Braid. 




This pattern is worked with medallion and feather- 
edge braid as follows : 

Take both braids and work them together so that 
the feather-edge braid will form the edge of the pat- 
tern. The d.c. have to be worked in the medallion, 
leaving an even space between each of them. 

1st row. — 1 d.c. in medallion; 4 ch.st. ; 1 d.c; 2 
ch.st., fasten in 5th loop of feather-edge braid; 1 
ch.st., 1 d.c. in medallion; 2 ch.st.; miss one loop of 
feather-edge, braid and fasten in the next one ; 1 
ch.st.; 1 d.c. in medallion ; 4 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in medal- 
lion ; 1 ch.st. 



10 

Repeat from *. 

2d row. — Crochet to the feather-edge braid the 
other side of the medallion braid, in the same way 
as 1st row. 



No. 11. — Lace Edging, with Medallion Braid. 




Work as follows, on one edge of the braid : 

1st row. — Make * 2 t, separated by 3 ch.st., 
around the division between two medallions ; 3 ch. 
st.; 1 d.c. in the edge of the next medallion ; 3 ch. 
st.; leave a space on the braid (see illustration 11); 
then make 1 d.c. in the edge of the same medallion; 
3 ch.st.; leave a space; 1 s.c. in the edge of the 
same medallion. Do not draw the loops together 
of this s.c. Make 1 s.c. in the edge of the next 
medallion, and draw the loops of the latter together 
with the remaining loops of the first s.c; alternate 
twice, 3 ch.st. (leaving a space on the braid); 1 d.c. 
in the edge of the same medallion. (The last d.c. 
must be worked close to the next division between 
two medallions) ; 3 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

2d row. — On the other edge of the braid, work * 
1 d.c. in the edge of medallion just next to the 



11 

division between two medallions ; 1 ch.st., join with 
a slip stitch to the next edge of a medallion of the 
second braid (see illustration); 1 cli.st. ; 1 d.c. 
around the next division between two medallions of 
the first braid ; 1 cli.st.; join to the same medallion 
of second braid, 1 cli.st.; 1 d.c. in the edge of next 
medallion of first braid; 5 cli.st.; leave a space of 
braid ; 1 d.c. in same medallion ; 3 cli.st., leaving a 
space; 1 d.c. in the edge of same; leave the last loops 
of this d.c. on the needle ; 1 d.c. in the edge of next 
medallion ; draw the loops of this d.c. with those on 
the needle together ; 3 cli.st.; leave a space on the 
braid; then make 1 d.c. in the edge of the same 
medallion ; 3 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

3d row. — Work on the other edge of the second 
braid, *1 d.d.c. around the next division between 
two medallions; 4 ch.st.; 3 d.c, each separated, 
from each other by 3 cli.st. (see illustration) in the 
edge of next medallion ; 4 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

4th row. — Alternate to end of row ; 1 d.c. in next 
st. of last row ; 2 ch.st.; miss 2 st. 



~No. 12. — Lace Edging. 




Make a chain as long as desired. 

1st row. — * 1 ch.st.; miss 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c. 

Repeat from * to the end of the foundation 



12 



2d row. — 1 t. in the next d.c. of the preceding 
row; * 1 t. in the 4th d.c; 3 ch.st. ; 2 t., separated 
by 5 ch.st. in the same loop in which the last treble 
lias been worked ; 3 ch.st.; 1 t. in the same loop into 
which the 3 last trebles have been worked. 

Repeat from *. 

3d row. — 3 s.c. round the 3 ch.st. of the preceding 
row; * 3 ch.st.; in the middle of the next 5 ch.st.. 
2 d.c, separated by 5 ch.st.; 3 ch.st.; 3 s.c. round 
the next 3 ch.st.; 3 s.c. round the next 3 ch.st.; 
draw together the last of the 3 s.c first worked and 
the first of the 3 s.c last worked. 

Repeat from *'. 



1ST o . 13— Lace Edging 




This pattern may be worked on ordinary braid or 
on "Point Lace" braid. 

1st row. — '* 1 s.c in the braid; 5 ch.st.; leave a 
space the width of three-quarters of a cent ; 6 t. in 
the braid, every one being separated by 2 ch.st.: 5 
ch.st.; leare the same space as before. 

Repeat from *. 

2d row. — *"* 1 s.c. in the middle of the next C) ch. 
st. of the last row; 5 ch.st.; *1 s.c. before the treble 
of the last row; 1 s.c. after it; 5 ch.st. 

Repeat 6 times from* ; then 1 s.c in the middle 
of the. next 5 ch.st. of the hist row. 

Repeat from **. 



13 



JSfo. 14— Lace Edging 




Make a chain of 15 stitches. Join. Work ronnd 
the 7 first ch.st: 1 s.c; 1 h.d.c; 6 d.c; 1 h.d.c; 
4 s.c; then 1 t. in the 11th ch.st. of the 15 ch.st.* 
Turn the work; 2 ch.st.: 1 s.c. round the upper 
loops of the last s.c. worked ; 11 ch.st.; join to the 
1st of the 4 s.c. which have been worked after the 1 
h.d.c. Turn the work ; 1 s.c; 1 h.d.c; (3 d.c; 1 h. 
d.c; 4 s.c round the next 7 of the 11 ch.st.; 1 t. 
round the 2 ch.st. coming after the treble. 

Repeat from *. 



Ko. 15. — Lace Edging 




Make a chain of 9 stitches. In going back miss 

1 ch.st. and work on the next 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c; 111. 
d.c; 1 d.c; 2t.; 2 ch.st,; 2 d.c. in the first of the 
9 ch.st,* Turn the work; 3 ch.st.; 3 s.c over the 

2 ch.st. coming before the last 2 t. ; 1 s.c. through 
the two loops of the next treble ; 5 ch.st, Turn the 
work; work back on the 5 ch.st.; miss 1 stitch; 
work 1 s.c; 1 h.d.c; 1 d.c; 1 t. and 1 t. in the next 
s.c; 2 ch.st.; miss 3 s.c; work 2 1, round the next 3 
ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 



14 
No. 16. — Lace Edging. 




Make a chain of 9 stitches. 

1st row. — 1 d.c. in the 5th of the 9 ch.st. of the 
foundation; 5 ch.st. ; 1 s.c. in the 1st stitch of the 
foundation. 

2d row. — Turn the work ; 11 s.c. around the 5 ch. 
st. of the last row ; 2 ch.st.; 1 d.c. around the ch. 
st. coming after the next d.c. 

3d row. — Turn the work; 4 ch.st.; 1 d.c. round 
the ch.st. coming after the next d.c. of the last row ; 
5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the 4th s.c. 

Repeat alternately the 2d and 3d row. ' 



No. 17. — Lace Edging. 




* Take a thread as foundation, and crochet round 
it 29 s.c; join the last 22 of them, while crochet- 
ing 1 cl. ch.st. round the 7th of the 29 s.c. (In this 
the thread of the foundation must be also worked 
in the cl. ch.st.) 

Repeat from *. 

2d row. — * 1 s.c. in the 6th s.c. of the next circle ; 
5 ch.st.; miss 1 s.c; repeat this 5 times ; work 1 s. 
c. in the next 2d s.c of the same circle ; 2 ch.st. 



15 



Repeat from *. 
3d row. — Alternate 1 
stitch of the 1st row. 



ch.st. ; 1 d.c. in every 2d 



No. 18. — Lace with Feather Edge Braid. 




This pattern is worked as follows : 

1st row. — On one edge of the braid, alternate 3 
s.c. in the nex' 3 loops of the braid ; 5 ch.st. 

2d. row. — Work around the 5 ch.st. of the last 
row 4 t., the first 2 and the last 2 being separated 
by 2 ch.st. 

3d row. — Work on the other edge of the braid 
alternately 1 d.c. in the next loop of the braid ; 1 
ch.st. 



No. 19. — Lace w t ith Feather Edge Braid. 




1st row. — On one edge of the braid, * 2 d.c. in 
the 2 next loops ; draw the 2 d.c. together ; make 
7 ch.st. ; 1 d.c. In the 1st of the 7 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

2d row. — On the other edge of the braid, alter- 
nate 1 s.c. in the next loop ; 1 ch.st. 



No. 20— Lace Edging. 




To work this pattern a. feather edge braid with 
clusters of 3 loop's, alternated on each side, is 
needed. . .... ._....._,..,,,;.,,■;, . 

1st row.— On one side of the- braid, * 3 d.c. in the 
next 3 loops ; draw these 3 d.c. together; Avork 4 
ch.st. and 3 d.c. in the 1st of the 3 d.c. first worked. 

Repeat from *. 

2d row. — On the other side of the braid, *1 s.c. 
in the middle one of the next 3, loops ; 2 ch.st.; 
draw the next loop, and the 1st of the 3 following 
loops together with 1 d.c; 2 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

Be careful to work every next s.c. in the middle 
one of the 3 loops on the braid. 



No. 21. — Lace with Feather Edge Braid. 




Work on one side of the feather edge braid as. 
follows : 

1st row. — * Take up 5 loops and draw them to- 
gether; work 5 ch.st.; alternate 4 times : 1 s.c. in 
the next loop; then 5 ch.st. 



17 

Repeat from '". 

2d row. — Work on the other side of the braid, * 1 
d.c. (see illustration .21) on the next 5. loops. In 
order to make this, take up, each of the 5 loops and 
draw them together with the 1 d. c. Crochet 5. ch. st. ; 
repeat twice 1 s.c. through the next 2 loops together, 
4 ch. st. 

Repeat from *.._... 

3d row. — * 1 d.c. around the 4th ch.st. of the last 
row ; 4 ch. st. 

Repeat from *. 



No. 22. — Lace with Feather Edge Braid. 




In order to work this pattern, crochet on a 
feather edge braid as follows : 

1st row. — Working on one edge of the braid, *2 
d.c. (separated by 3 ch.st.) in the 2d loop of the 
braid ; 2 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

2d row. — *4 d.c. around the next 3 ch.st. of the 
last row ; then work in the middle loop of the fol- 
lowing 3 ch.st.: 7 d.c, each separated by 1 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

3d row. — * 1 s.c. in the middle of the 4 d.c. of the 
last row; 1 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the loop coming 
before the 1st of the 7 d.c. of the last row ; 5 ch.st. 



18 

around each of the 6 following chain stitches ; 1 s.c. 
around the 7th ch.st. ; then 5 ch.st. ; 1 s.c. around 
the loop coming before the next 4 d.c. ; 1 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

4th row. — On the other edge of the braid, * 3 d. c. 
in the next loop ; 3 ch.st.; miss one loop. 

Repeat from *. 



No. 23. — Lace with Feather Edge Braid. 




Work on one edge of the braid. 

1st row. — *2 d.c. separated by 3 ch.st. in every 
other loop of the braid ; 2 ch.st. 

Repeat from * 

2d row. — 2 s.c. around the 3 ch. st., which have 
been crocheted between the 2 d.c. of the last row ; 13 
t. around the next 3 ch.st. of the last row. 

Repeat from *. 

3d row. — On the other edge of the braid, * 2 d.c. ; 
(separated by 3 ch.st.) through both the next 2 loops 
together ; 2 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 



No. 24. — Lace Edging. 




1st row. — * Make a chain of 10 ; join with a s.c.;. 
10 d.c. around the circle ; 4 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

2d row. — Turn the work ; * 6 ch.st., fastened by 1 
s.c. between the 2d and 3d d.c. of the last row;; 
6 ch.st. between every other d.c. except the last, 
where 2 d.c. are omitted as at first ; 3 ch.st., fastened 
in the 1st d.c. of the next wheel. 

Repeat from *. 

3d row. — Turn the work; * 6 ch.st., fastened in 
each chain of the preceding row by a s.c. ; 3 ch.st. 
over the chain of 3 stitches of the preceding row ; 1 
s.c. over the same chain; 3 ch.st., fastened with 1 
s.c. around the 1st chain cf the next wheel. 

Repeat from *. 

4th row. — Upper part of the work. Turn the 
work; *2 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the 3d ch.st. of the pre- 
ceding row. 

Repeat from *. 



20 
No. 25.— Lack 




This pattern is worked as follows : 

11 oh. st. ; join them with 1 cl.ch.st.; 5 ch.st. ; 12 
d.c. around the 11 ch.st.; * turn the work; 2 ch.st.; 
5 s.c. around the last 5 of the 12, d.c. ; 7 ch.st. Work 
3 times : 1 d.c, separated by 2 ch.st. througn every 
other d.c; 2 ch.st.; then 1 d.c around the next 
ch.st. Turn the work: 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c around the 2 
following ch.st. of the last row. Work in each of the 
following chains: 1 p. (consisting of 5 ch.st. and 1 
s.c, fastened in the 1st of the 5 ch.st.) ; then 3 
ch.st.; 12 d.c. around the following 7 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

The upper end of the lace is crocheted as follows : 
* 1 s. c around the last of the 5 s.c. of the last 
row ; 3 ch.st.: 1 1. around the 7 ch.st., around which 
12 d.c have already been worked ; 3 ch.st. 
Repeat from * 



21 

No. 26. — Lace Insertion, with Medallion 
Braid. 




Take two strips of medallion braid, cross them at 
the divisions between two medallions (see illustra- 
tion), and work on the wrong side, so that the braid 
of the first strip should be below the braid of the 
second strip. Work on the wrong side as follows : 

1st row. — 1 d.e. around the crossed divisions ; 3 
ch.st.; 1 s.c. in next medallion of second strip, near 
those crossed divisions ; 3 ch.st.; join the two strips 



together with 1 s.c. 



in the edge of the next two 
Work on the right side 



medallions (see illustration) 
of the braid 12 ch.sfc. ; 1 s. c. in the edge of same medal- 
lion of first strip ; 4 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in next medallion; 
8 ch.st.; join with slip stitch in the edge of medal- 
lion of second strip already worked ; 4 ch.st. ; catch 
with si. st. to the edge of next medallion; 4 ch.st.; 
1 s.c. in the 8th st. of the 12 ch.st. previously 
worked, catching at the same time the middle of the 
8 ch.st. ; 7 ch.st. Turn the work on the wrong side ; 
join the medallions of the two strips together with 
1 s.c; 3 ch.st.; turn. 
Repeat from *. 



22 

Work on each edge of strips as follows : 

2d row. — * 2 d.c, separated by 5 ch.st., around 
next division between two medallions; 5 ch.st.; 1 
d.c. in the edge of next medallion; 6 ch.st. (see 
illustration); 2 d.d.c, one in the same medallion, the 
other in the next medallion ; draw the last loops of 
these 2 d.d.c. (see illustration) together; 6 ch.st.; 
1 d.c. in the edge of last worked medallion; 5 ch.st. 

Repeat from '*. 

3d row. — Alternate to end of row ; 1 d.c. in next 
stitch of last row ; 2 ch.st.; miss 2 st. 



No. 27. — Lace Edging 




To work this pattern, make a chain of 22. 

1st row. — Miss 10 ch.st. ; work 1 s.c. in next ch.st. ; 
5 d.c. in next 3d ch.st.; 1 s.c. in following 3d 
ch.st.; 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in 1st ch.st. of foundation. 

2d row. — 7 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around middle one of 
next 5 ch.st. of last row; 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around 
the upper loops of middle one of next 5 d.c; 5 
ch.st.; 1 s.c. around middle one of following 5 ch. 
St.; 12 ch.st. 

3d row. — 1 s.c. in 3d st. of the 12 ch.st. of last 
row ; alternate 3 times : 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around next 
chain. 



23 

4th row. — 7 ch.st. ; alternate 3 times : 1 s.c. around 
middle one of next 5 ch.st. of last row; 5 ch.st.; 
work 1 s.c. in the 3d one of next 9 ch.st. 

5th row.— 12 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around middle one of 
next 5 ch.st. of last row; 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around 
following 5 ch.st.; 5 d.c. in the next s.c; 1 s.c. 
around middle one of next 5 ch.st. 

6th row. — 7 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around middle one of 
next 5 ch.st.; 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the upper loops 
of the middle one of the 5 d.c; alternate twice : 5 
ch.st.; 1. s.c. around next chain ; work 7 ch.st. 

7th row. — 1 s.c around middle one of next 5 
ch.st. of last row; alternate 3 times : 5 ch.st. and 1 
s.c. around middle one of next 5 ch.st. 

8th row. — 7 ch.st.; alternate 3 times: 1 s.c. 
around next 5 ch.st.; 5 ch.st. Work 3 s.c. around 
following 7 ch.st.; 15 t. around the 12 ch.st. of 5th 
row ; 3 s.c. around the remaining 9 of the 12 ch.st. 
of 2d row; 2 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the remaining 
ch.st. of foundation. 

9th row. — 5 ch.st. ; 1 s.c; fasten between the 3d 
s.c. and the next t. of last row ; alternate 4 times : 5 
ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the upper loops of following 
3d d.c. Work 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c around loop coming 
before next s.c; alternate twice: 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. 
around middle one of next 5 ch.st. Work 5 t. 
in next s.c; 1 s.c. around middle one of next 5 
ch.st.; 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around middle one of the fol- 
lowing 5 ch.st. 

Repeat constantly from 2d to 9th rows ; but at 
the repetition of 8th row, work 1 s.c around the 5 
ch.st. of the 9th row, instead of working it around 
the remaining- ch.st. of foundation. 



24 
lio. 28. — Lace with Sekpent'hste Bkaid. 




This pattern is worked on a coarse-grained ser- 
pentine braid. 

1st row.— On one side of the braid, work in even 
spaces 7 d.c, each separated from the other by 1 
p. (consisting of 5 ch.st and 1 s.c. in the 1st of the 
5 ch.st.) 

2d row. — On the other edge of the braid, work 
*3 d.c. in the middle of the upper ridge; 5 ch.st.; 
(see illustration 28) 3 t., a little more than half 
way down the lower ridge; 3 t., a little less than 
half way up ; draw together those 6 t. ; 5 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

3d row. — '* 3 d.c. in the 3 ch.st. coming before 
the 3 d.c. of last row; 3 ch.st.; 3 d.c. in the 3 ch.st. 
coming after the 3 d.c. of last row; 3 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

4th row. — Alternate 1 d.c. in every other ch.st. of 
last row : 1 ch.st. 



25 
29. — Lace with Pointed Bkaid. 




This pattern has to be worked on both edges of a 
pointed braid. 

1st row. — Make in the next point of the braid 5 t., 
separating one from the other by 5 ch.st. ; 5 ch.st., 
5 t. in the next bend of braid (see illustration 29) ; 
draw these 5 t. together; 5 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

2d row. — 1 d.c. around next 5 ch.st. of last row; 
* 2 ch.st.; alternate twice : 1 s.c. around middle one 
of next 5 ch.st.; 2 ch.st.; 1 d.c. around following 5 
ch.st.; do not draw yet the upper loops together ; 1 
d.c. around the 3d 5 ch.st.; draw together these 2 
d.c. 

Repeat from *. 

3d row. — * 3 s.c. around the next 2 ch.st. of the 
last row. 

Repeat from *. 



26 

No. 30. — Insertion with Pointed Braid. 



This insertion is worked on each edge of the braid 
in 3 rows. 

1st row. — * 2 d.c, separated by 4 ch.st. in next 
point of the braid; 4 ch.st. ; 2 d.c. in the bend of the 
braid, leaving a space of one-half cent between them 
on both sides of the next bend ; draw those 2 d.c. 
together ; 4 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

2d row.— Alternate 5 d.c. around next 4 ch.st. of 
last row ; 4 ch.st. 

3d row. — Alternate 1 d.c. in every other ch.st.; 1 
ch.st. 



27 
No. 31. — Insertion. 




This pattern is worked partly horizontally, partly 
vertically. 

Work first the middle part of the pattern. 

Make 10 ch.st. ; the 3 last will serve asld.c; 
working back on the first 7 of the 10 ch.st., make 7 
d.c. 

* Turn the work. 

3 ch.st., which will serve as 1 d.c. ; 7 d.c. in the 
next 7 st. ; 7 ch.st.; the last 3 will serve as 1 d.c; 
turn the work. Going back on the stitches last 
worked, make 7 d.c. in next 7 stitches. 

Repeat from * until the required length of the in- 
sertion is reached. 

Each edge of this centre part of the pattern is 
worked as follows : 

1st row.— Alternate 1 s.c. in the next point of the 
work ; 6 ch.st. 

2d row. — Alternate 3 d.c. in the next st. of last 
row ; draw together those 3 d.c. ; 2 ch.st.; miss 2. 

3d row. — Work like the 2d row, with the excep- 
tion that the 3 d.c. ; must be worked in the 2d of the 
2 ch.st., coming after every 3 d.c. of the last row. 



28 



No. 32.— Lace. 




Work a chain of 25 st. ; 1 t. in the 17th st. ; turn 
the work ; 2 ch.st. ; 13 d.c. around the circle ; fasten 
on the 14th of the 25 ch. st. ; turn the work. Alternate 
13 times, 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c around the upper loops of 
the next d.c; 6 ch.st. Turn. 1 t. around the mid- 
dle one of the next 5 ch.st. Repeat 12 times : 3 
ch.st.; 1 t. around the middle of the next 5 ch.st. 
Turn. Make a sl.st. in the 6th of the 25 ch.st. al- 
ready worked. 

Repeat 12 times : 5 s.c. around the next 3 ch.st. 
The last s.c. has to be worked, however, around the 
loop, coming before the 1st of the 13 t. already 
worked. 

Turn; 9 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the middle one of the 
next 5 s.c. 

Repeat 12 times: 4 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the middle 
one of the next 5 s.c. The last s.c. must come on 
the 1st of the s.c. already Avorked. 

Turn; make a sl.st. in the 3d of the 25 ch.st. 
worked before ; then work to end ; 6 s.c. around 
the next 4 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. Yet at every repetition, turn the 
work on the wrong side, after the 3d and 9 th of the 
last 78 s.c, and crochet 1 d.c. in the 75th and 69th 
s.c. of last pattern. 



29 
No. 33. — Lace. 




1st row. — 16 cli.st. ; join the last 11 with 1 d.c; 
4 cli.st. ; 2 d.c. in the 1st ch.st. of foundation. 

2d row. — 3 ch.st., which will serve as 1 d.c; 1 
d.c. around the upper loops of both next d.c. of 
the last row ; 4 ch.st. ; 1 d.c. around the upper loops 
of the next d.c: 9 d.c around next 7 ch.st. 

3d row. — 3 ch.st., which will serve as 1 d.c; work 
in the next 10 d.c of last row : 10 d.c, each separa- 
ted by 1 ch.st.; 4 ch.st.; miss 4 st. ; work 2 d.c 
around next 2 st. 

4th row. — 3 ch.st., which will serve as one d.c; 

1 d.c. around the upper loops of the 2d of the next 

2 d.c; 4 ch.st., 10 d.c, each separated by 2 ch.st. 
in the next 10 d.c 

5th row. — 6 ch.st.; the 3 first ones will serve as 1 
d.c; miss the following d.c; 9 d.c, each separated 
by 3 ch.st.; in the next 9 d.c of last row, 4 ch.st.; 
miss 4 st.; 2 d.c around next 2 st. 

6th row. — 3 ch.st., which will serve as 1 d.c; 1 
d.c around the upper loops of the 2d of next 2 d.c. 
of last row ; 4 ch.st., 10 d.c, each separated by 4 
ch.st. around the next 10 d.c 

7th row. — 1 ch.st.; repeat 9 times 1 festoon made 
as follows: 1 s.c, 1 h.d.c, 3 d.c, 1 h.d.c; 1 s.c. 
around the next 4 ch.st. Then work 1 d.c around 



30 



the next d.c. ; 4 ch.st. ; miss 4; 2 d.c. around next 2 st. 

8th row. — 3 ch.st., which will serve as 1 d.c; 1 
d.c. around the 2d one of next 2 d.c. of last row ; 4 
ch.st.; miss 4; 1 d.c. around next d.c; 3 ch.st.; 
fasten to the middle d.c of next festoon. 

9th row. — 7 ch.st.; 1 d.c. around next d.c. of last 
row; 4 ch.st.; miss 4; 2 d.c. around" next 2 st. The 
2d to 9th rows, inclusive, are constantly repeated. 
At the repetition of the 3d row, fasten, the middle 
one of the 3 ch.st., which serve as 1 d.c, to next fes- 
toon. Do the same with 7th row. 



No. 34. — Lace Edging with Russian Beaid. 




This edging is worked on a cream-colored Russian 
braid, having woven loops on both edges. 

1st row. — * Fold the braid according to illustra- 
tion, and work 13 s.c in that fold of the braid ; 
make 5 ch.st.; miss 1 loop of braid; alternate 10 



31 

times: 1 d.c. in the following loop of the braid; 1 
ch.st. Then work 1 d.c. in the following loop, not 
drawing the stitch together. Leave next 7 loops un- 
touched ; then fold the braid as is shown in illus- 
tration. Make 1 d.c. in the loop opposite to the last 
loop worked, and work the last d.c. with this d.c. 
together; alternate 4 times: 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the 
next loop. Work 11 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the 6th; 5 
ch.st.; fasten to the 7th d.c. opposite; 4 ch.st.; miss 
next d.c; fasten in following d.c; 3 ch.st. ; work 8 t., 
each being separated from the other by 1 p. (made 
with 5 ch.st. and 1 s.c in the first stitch of the 
chain) around the circle of 5 ch.st. previously 
worked; 7 ch.st.; fasten to last d.c. ; 1 ch.st.; ld.c 
in the next loop of braid ; 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in next 
loop ; fasten this last d.c. to the 4th st. of the chain 
of 7. Alternate 3 times: 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the next 
loop. Turn the work. Going back on the trebles, 
work 2 ch.st.; 8 t. ; separate one from the other 
by 1 ch.st.; 1 p.; 1 ch.st.; work each of these 8 t. 
in each t. of the 8 t. last worked; 2 ch.st.; fasten in 
the 2d of the opposite 10 d.c. Turn the work on 
the right side ; make 3 ch.st.; fasten to the middle 
of the first ch. of 5, worked at beginning of the 
work ; 1 ch.st. Going back on the trebles, make 8 
trebles (separate the one from the other by 2 ch.st., 
1 p., 2 ch.st.), each treble in each of the 8 t. last 
worked ; 5 ch.st.; fasten to last d.c; 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c 
in the next loop of braid ; 2 ch.st.; fasten to the 2d 
of the last worked 5 ch.st. ; 3 ch.st. Repeat from *. 
2d row. — 7 s.c. in the 7 middle ones of the next 
13 s.c. of last row ; 1 ch.st.; 1 p. ; 2 ch.st.; f 1 t. in 
the next t. Alternate twice; 1 ch.st.; 1 p. Then 
work 1 ch.st. 



Repeat 6 times from f. 

Work 1 t. in the next t. ; 1 ch.st.; 1 p.; 2 cli.st. 

Repeat from * 

3d row. — Work oh the other edge of the work: 
* 13 s.c. along the next fold of the braid ; 5 ch.st.; 
miss 1 loop of braid ; 1 d.c. in the next loop. Alter- 
nate 9 times; 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the next loop. 
Finally, leave the 2 last loops of the last d.c. on the 
needle. 

1 d.c. in the opposite loop of braid correspond- 
ing with the last loop worked. Work this d.c. 
with the unfinished d.c. already on the needle. 
Alternate 5 times ; 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c. in the next loop. 
Work 3 ch.st. ; 1 p. (consisting of 5 ch.st., fasten- 
ing the last stitch to the 1st st. by a slip stitch) ; 
make next 4 ch.st.; fasten to the 5th of the 9 d.c. 
on the opposite side; 4 ch.st.; 1 p., as before; 7 
ch.st.; 1 p.; 3 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the last d.c; 1 d.c. in 
the next loop of braid. Alternate 3 times ; 1 ch.st. ; 
1 d.c. in the next loop ; work next 5 ch.st. 

Repeat from *. 

4th row. — 4 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the first of the next 
13 s.c. of last row ; 3 ch.st.; fasten to the 1st of 4 
ch.st.; 15 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the last one of the 
13 s.c; 3 ch.st.; fasten to the 12th one of the 15 
ch.st. worked before ; 17 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the middle 
one of the 7 ch.st. of last row; 3 cli.st. ; fasten to 
the 14th one of the 17 cli.st. worked before; 13 
ch. st. 

Repeat from "*. 

5th row. — Alternate to the end; 1 d.c. in the 2d 
stitch of last row ; 1 ch.st. 






Four Numbers Issued. 



OOISTTZE^TS- 
No. 1 -HOW TO CROCHET. 

With full explanations of all Crochet Stitches, 
and numerous illustrations. 

No. 2.-LAMBREQTJIN DESIGNS. 

Especially adapted for Twine. Illustrated. (Second 
Edition; Enlarged.) 

No. 3.-MISCELLANEOTJS DESIGNS. 

Tidies, Mats and Spreads. Illustrated. 

No. 4.-FINE CROCHET WORK. 

Designs for Lace Edgings, Insertions, etc. 



CROCHET SERIES. 



No. 5. 





Maltese or Hair-Pin 



CfJoCSf^ WOf(£, 



AND DESIGNS FOR 



FRINGES, AFGHANS, Etc. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



PRICE, 15 CENTS. 




PUBLISHED BY 

HENRY BRISTOW, 
296 Fulton St. , Brooklyn, N. Y. 




Maltese or Hair-Pin 



C80(5&^¥ WOf^K. 



AND DESIGNS FOR 



FRINGES, AFGHANS, Etc. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



r 

\ 



\y 



COMPILED AND EDITED 

BY 
MARIE LOUISE KERZMAN. 






PUBLISHED BY 

HENRY B R, I S T O W, 

296 Fulton St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 



V 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, 

By HENRY BRISTOW, 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. 0. 



DESCRIPTION OF TERMS USED II CROCHET. 



Chain Stitch. — Make a loop, throw the cotton 
around the needle and pass it through. Continue 
to throw the cotton around the needle and to draw 
it through the loop on the needle until the chain is 
of the required length. 

Close Chain Stitch. — Insert the hook in the loop 
of preceding row, and draw cotton through it and 
the loop on the needle at the same time. 

Single Crochet. — Pass the hook through a loop of 
the last row, bring cotton through, throw cotton 
around the needle and pass it through the two loops 
on the needle. 

Double Crochet. — Throw cotton once around the 
needle, pass the hook through a loop of the preced- 
ing row, bring cotton through, then take cotton up 
and bring it through two loops twice. 

Half Double Crochet. — Like double crochet, only- 
pass the cotton through the three loops on the 
needle, instead of passing it through two loops 
twice. 

Treble. — Throw the cotton twice around the needle, 
and work as double crochet, but bring cotton through 
two loops three times. 



Double Doable Crochet. — Throw the cotton over 
the needle three times, work as double crochet, but 
draw the cotton through two loops four times. 

Picot. — Make a chain of a certain number of 
stitches, and work a single crochet in the first chain 
stitch. 

Picots can be worked in different ways, which will 
always be explained in the directions of a pattern. 

JRibbed Crochet. — Make a single crochet in the 
back loop of each stitch of the row last worked. 
At the end of every row make a chain stitch and 
turn the work ; then begin the next row. 

Slip Stitch. — This stitch is used in joining. Take 
the hook from the last loop worked, pass it through 
the loop where the work has to be joined; then take 
the first loop spoken of and draw it through. 



ABBREVIATIONS USED IN DIRECTIONS. 

1 Loop. 

ch. st Chain Stitch. 

cl. ch. st Close Chain Stitch. 

s. c Single Crochet. 

d. c Double Crochet. 

h. d. c Half Double Crochet. 

t :. r ......-..:. Treble. 

d. d. a, Double Double Crochet. 

p Picot. 

r. c Ribbed Crochet. 

si. st .................... Slip Stitch. 



FRINGE 



~No. 1. — Fkinge. 

To work this pattern, make a chain of desired 
length. 

1st row. — 1 ch.st. ; 
take np the following 
3 ch.st.; draw them, 
with the other loop on 
the needle, together 
with 1 s.c. ; f 1 ch.st.; 
take np the stitch last 
taken np; take np the 
following 2 st. of ch. ; 
draw them, with the 
other loop on the 
needle, together as be- 
fore. Repeat from *. 

2d row. — 1 ch.st.; 
take up the last ch.st. 
of last row ; take the 
loop with Avhich the 4 
last stitches have been 
drawn together ; take 
up the next ch. st. ; 
draw these loops and 
the loop which is on 
the needle together ; 
* 1 ch.st. ; take up the 
last loop" taken up ; take up the next two loops, 
draw them with the loop on the needle together. 
Repeat from * 




3d to 9 til rows, inclusive. — Like 2d row. 

10th row. — Alternate to the end of row Id .c. in 
next ch.st. ; 1 ch.st. 

Fasten fringe to the bottom edge of the work, ac- 
cording to illustration, taking every time 5 threads 
of required length and folding them in half. 



No. 2. — Feinge. 




This pattern work as follows : 

1st row. — 3 "ch.st.; 13 d.c. in the 1st ch.st.; 1 cl. 



ch. st. in the 3d of the 3 ch.st. ; 7 ch.st. ; fasten in a 
circle the last 4 with 1 cl. ch.st.; 3 ch.st., which will 
serve as lie; 8 d.c. around the circle; fasten to 
the 1st of the 7 ch.st. already worked ; then 9 d.c. 
around the circle ; 1 cl. ch.st. in 3d of the first 3 ch. 
st.; 8 ch.st.; fasten in a circle the last 4, with cl.ch. 
st.; 4 ch.st., which will serve as 1 t. ; 11 t. around 
the circle ; fasten to 1st of the 8 ch.st. ; 12 t. around 
the circle ; 1 cl. ch.st. in the 4th of the first 4 ch.st.; 
3 cl. ch.st. in next 3 st 

Turn; 8 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the following 5th 
st.; 18 ch.st.; fasten in a circle the last 7, with 1 
cl.ch. st.; 11 s.c. around the circle ; 3 ch.st.; fasten 
(see illustration) to the upper rosette ; 9 ch.st. 
Break the thread Repeat from *; fasten according 
to illustration. 

2d row. — ■* 13 s.c. around next 8 ch.st. of last 
row ; 1 s.c. around next st. ; 5 ch.st. Make 1 t. in 
the 5th of next 18 ch. st., only drawing together the 
lower loops of the t. ; 1 d.c. in the 6th of next 9 ch. 
st. ; draw together the upper loops of the t. ; 3 ch. 
st. ; 1 d.c. in the middle of the last worked t. ; 5 ch. 
st.; 1 s.c. in the st. into which the next s.c. of last 
row has been worked. Repeat from *. 

3d row. — * 1 s.c. in the middle one of next 13 
s.c. of last row; 9 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the middle 
one of the 3 ch.st. of the next cross treble stitch ; 9 
ch.st. Repeat from *. 

4th row. — Work to end 15 s.c. around next 5 
ch.st. of last row. 

5th row. — Alternate 1 s.c. around the middle one 
of next 15 ch.st. of last row ; 7 ch.st. 

6th row. — Alternate 7 d.c. in next s.c. of last 
row ; 1 s.c. in the middle one of next 7 ch.st. 



The fringe is fastened to the work as shown in 
illustration ; it is fastened in tassels having each 20 
threads folded in the middle. 



No. 3. — Feinge. 



wi.'i»iiu«'«' , v.w:ii 










This pattern is worked as follows : 

Working on the fringe, first cut for every tassel 
20 threads of required length, fold them in half and 
work at the tassel as follows : 

Make a chain of 6 st. 



1st row. — 1 s.c. around the fold of the fringe of 
20 threads ; pull the loop, when the s.c. is made, of 
a length of J of an inch ; then make f 5 ch.st.; fas- 
ten this chain around the tassel with 1 cl. ch.st. in 
the 1st of the 5 ch.st. ; then work 4 ch.st., which will 
serve as 1 t. ; 17 t. around the 5 ch. st. encircling the 
tassel ; fasten with 1 cl. ch.st. in the 4th of the 4 ch. 
st. serving as 1 t. Make 2 ch.st. Repeat twice 
from f. See illustration 3. Finally, after the last 
repetition, fasten the thread and break it. 

Every tassel is worked in the same manner. Yet 
at every repetition, before making the first 6 ch.st., 
make first 1 cl. ch.st. in the s.c. of preceding tassel, 
and work the end of the thread in with the follow- 
ing 6 ch.st. 

2d row. — Make 1 s.c. in every ch.st. of the chain 
of last row to which the tassels are fastened. 

3d row. — Alternate 3 d.c. in next 3 st. of last 
row (draw together the upper loops of these 3 d.c.) 
See illustration. 3 ch.st.; miss 1 st. 

4th row. — * 1 d.c. in the st. made by drawing 
together the 3 d.c. of last row. Do not draw 
together the upper loops of this st. ; 1 d.c. in next 
st., made by drawing together the 3 d.c; draw 
the upper loops of this d.c. with the remaining loops 
of the preceding d.c. together; 3 ch.st. Repeat 
from *. Yet at every repetition work the next d.c. 
in the st. in which the last d.c. has been worked. • 

5th row. — Work in the same manner as last row. 
See illustration. 

6th row. — Alternate 3 d.c. in next 2 d.c. drawn 
together of last row ; 1 ch.st. 

7th row. — Make 1 s.c. in every st. of last row. 



10 



No. 4. — Fringe. 




Work first the rosettes of this fringe as follows : 
Wind the thread 20 times around a knitting 
needle of wood, pass the crochet hook through the 
center of the winding, taking the winding off from 
the knitting needle; make 1 s.c. ; 2 ch.st., which 
will serve as first t. Work 31 1. around the winding, 
and finally make 1 cl. ch.st. in the 2d of the first 2 
ch.st. of this round. 

2d round. — 6 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the following 3d st. 
Alternate twice : 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in the following 3d 



11 

st. Alternate 3 times : 5 ch.st. ; 1 s.c. around the 
next 2d st. Alternate twice : 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around 
the next 3d st. 

Make 6 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the next 3d st. 

Fasten the thread and break it. Every rosette is 
worked in this same manner. Always fasten with a 
slip st. the first 2 ch.st. of the 2d round to the last 
2 ch.st. of the preceding rosette. 

The top part of this fringe is worked as follows : 

1st row. — * 1 s.c. in the ch.st. coming before the 
last of the last ch. of next rosette. Alternate 
twice : 5 ch.st.; 1 s.c. around the next 2d t. 

Work 5 ch.st. ; 1 s.c. in the 2d ch.st. of the 1st 
chain of the same rosette ; 5 ch.st. Repeat from *. 

2d row. — Alternate to end of row 1 s.c. in the 
middle one of next chain of last row ; 3 ch.st. 

3d row. — Alternate to end of row 1 d.c. in the 
next 2d st. of last row ; 1 ch.st. 

The fringe is fastened around the bottom edge of 
the rosettes. Fasten 6 threads at a time folded in 
half. 



12 



MALTESE EDGINGS, INSERTIONS, Etc. 



This kind of work, formerly known as Maltese 
Edging, and now generally called Hairpin Crochet, 
consists of a narrow braid, worked on what were 
called Maltese pins. These pins were of various 
sizes, according to the coarseness or fineness of the 
cotton nsed for the edging. Yet, as the term Mal- 
tese has practically died out, it is doubtful whether 
these special pins can still be had. A long hairpin, 
however, will answer the purpose as well. 



Nos. 1 to 3.— How to Make Maltese Edging. 






No. 1. Maltese Pin. No. 3. Maltese Edging. 



No. 2. Mode op Working 
Maltese Edging. 



13 

Make a loop with a crochet needle. Withdraw 
the hook, hold the loop in the left hand, between 
thumb and forefinger ; take a hairpin likewise be- 
tween thumb and forefinger, holding it perpendicu- 
larly, so that it rests on the end thread below the 
loop. See illustration 1. Pass the cotton towards 
you, between both arms of the pin, and put it 
around the right arm of the pin from front to rear, 
and wind it, like in crocheting, around the fingers 
of the left hand. Pass the hook through the loop, 
and pull the cotton through it. Withdraw the hook 
from the newly-formed loop ; turn the pin from 
right to left, so that the cotton now rests on the 
right arm of pin. * Pass the crochet hook through 
the loop, and form another loop in drawing the 
thread through it ; then make 1 s.c. in the upper 
loop, which is around the left arm. The o in illus- 
tration 2 shows where this s.c. has to be made. 
Withdraw the hook ; turn the needle from right to 
left and repeat from *. Always make the s.c. tight. 
When the pin is full, press the work downward. 
When this compressed work partly fills the pin, re- 
move the edging from the pin. Replace the edging 
upon the pin by inserting the arms into 3 loops on 
each side. Illustration No. 3 shows a piece of Mal- 
tese edging completed. 



14 

No. 4. — Insertion. 




Make an edging as described in Nos. 1-3. 
Work on each edge of this edging as follows : 
1st row. — Alternate 2 s.c in next loop ; 2 ch.st. 
2d row. — Crochet 1 d.c. in every st. of last row. 



No. 5. — Maltese Edging. 




Work an edging in the same way as described 
before, only make 2 s.c, instead of 1 s.c, in the 
loop which comes around the left arm of pin. 

Along the upper edge crochet- as follows : 

1st row. — Alternate 3 s.c; 1 ch.st. 

2d row. — Alternate 2 d.c aronnd chain of 1 ; 2 
ch.st. 



No. 6. — Maltese Lace Edging. 




Make a Maltese edging of desired length. 
Work 5 s.c. in every loop on one edge of the 
edging. 



15 

On the other edge work : 

1st row. — Alternating to end of row, 1 s.c. in 
next loop of edge ; 3 ch.st. 

2d row. — 1 d.c. in every 2d st. of last row ; 1 ch. 
st. after every d.c. 



No. 7. — Insertion. 




This insertion consists of two narrow Maltese 
edgings ; they are crocheted to each other in the 
following manner : 

Work * 1 s.c. around next loop of first edging ; 3 
ch.st.; 1 s.c. around next loop of 2d edging; 3 ch. 
st. Repeat from *. 

The upper edge and lower edge of pattern is fin- 
ished off by making 3 s.c. in every loop of edging. 



16 



No. 8. — Maltese Edging with Fringe. 




The. edging of the fringe is made somewhat in a 
different manner from that of directions No. 1. In- 
stead of making 1 s.c. in the upper loop around left 
arm of pin, * take up this loop ; throw the thread 
around the crochet needle ; take up again the same 
loop ; throw the thread around the needle ; take up 
the loop again ; then throw the thread around the 
needle and draw it through the loops on the crochet 
needle. 

Turn the pin from right to left ; crochet as usual ; 
then repeat from *. 



17 

When the desired length is reached, crochet on 
one edge of the edging 3 s.c. 

The fringe is crocheted in the loops on the other 
edge by making s.c. and drawing the loop of each 
of these s.c. ont to the required length of fringe. 



No. 9.— Maltese Edging, with Fringe. 




Make first a Maltese edging, according to descrip- 
tion ~No. 5, with strong, coarse cotton. 

Fasten the fringe of same cotton around the loops 
of the lower edge. 



18 
No. 10. — Maltese Lace Edging. 




This pattern's worked with fine, white cotton, and 
is crocheted in two parts. 

Crochet 3 pieces of Maltese edging, making the 
loops on one edge longer than those on the other. 
See illustration 10. Join two of these edgings at 
their short looped edges, as follows : * pass the 
hook in next two loops of first edging, and make 1 
s.c. around them; 3 ch.st.; pass the hook through 
the next 2 loops of 2d edging, and make 1 s.c. 
around them ; 3 ch.st. Repeat from *. 

Along the edges, with the longer loops, pass the 
crochet hook in every loop ; twist the loop twice 
and make 1 s.c. around it ; then 1 ch.st. In this 
way the first part of the work is accomplished. 

Take the 3d edging ; crochet along the edge which 
has the longest loops the two following rows : 

1st row. — * Lay the next 1st loop over the 2d 
loop and crochet around them 4 d.c, each separated 



19 

from the other by 4 ch.st. Then 1 ch.st.; 1 s.c. 
around every one of the next following 7 loops. 
Before making this s.c, twist the loop once ; 1 ch. 
st. Repeat from *. 

2d row. — * 1 s.c. around the middle chain of 4 of 
the 3 chains worked in last row; 7 ch.st.; 1 t. 
around the 1 ch.st. coming before the 7 s.c. of last 
row ; 1 t. around the 1 ch.st. coming after the 7 s.c. 
of last row ; 7 ch.st. Repeat from *. 

On the other edge, with the short loops of the 
edging, work in the following manner : 

* Take the three loops of this edge corresponding 
with the 4 d.c, separated by 3 chains of 4, worked 
on the other edge of edging ; lay the first and second 
loops over the 3d loop, and crochet 1 s.c. around 
these 3 loops. 

Alternate 6 times 4 ch.st. ; 1 s.c. around next loop 
of edging ; then 4 ch.st. Repeat from *. 

Finally, the 2 parts of the pattern are sewn to 
each other on the wrong side of the work. 



No. 11. — Insertion. 




This insertion is made with three Maltese edgings, 



20 

which are worked to each other without the means 
of cotton. 

Hold two Maltese edgings next to each other ; 
pass the crochet hook vertically downward in the 
1st loop of one edging, and draw the next loop of 
the other edging through it. Then continue to 
work (see illustration 12), passing the hook verti- 
cally upward through the loop formed, and draw- 
ing the next loop of the 1st edging through it ; then 
draw the next loop of the second edging through, 
etc. The + in illustration 12 shows the loop, which 
must next be drawn through. 



No. 12. — Rosette. 




In order to make this rosette, first crochet a Mal- 
tese edging having 30 loops on each edge. Sew 
together the two ends of this edging. 

Crochet around each loop of the inner edge of 
this round: 1 s.c. ; 2 ch.st. ; finally, join with 1 si. 
.st. to the 1st s.c. of this round. 

2d round. — 8 ch.st., which will serve as a double 
t. A double treble is made in the same way as a 
t, except that the cotton is thrown 4 times around 



21 



the needle instead of 2 times. * 1 d.t. around each 
of the following 3 chains of 2. (The upper loops of 
these 3 d.t. have to be drawn together at the same 
time). 5 ch.st. ; miss next 2 chains of 2 of last- 
round ; 1 d.t. around next ch. of 2. Repeat from*. 
Finally, join with a sl.st. to the 8th ch.st. at be- 
ginning of this round. 

3d round. — 4 s.c. around every chain of last 
round. 



No. 13.— Rosette. 




Work * 1 s.c, followed by 6 ch.st. in every one 
of the next 8 loops of a Maltese edging ; 1 s. c. , 2 
ch.st. in each of the following 5 loops ; 1 s.c. in 6th 
loop ; 1 ch.st., 1 s.c. around next loop; 1 ch.st., 1 



22 ■ 

s.c. around next 10 loops ; 1 ch.st., 1 s.c. around 
following loop ; 1 cli.st., 1 s.c, 2 cli.st. around each 
of next 5 loops. Repeat from * ; but at every repe- 
tition join the 1st s.c. to the last s.c, preceded by 6 
ch.st. already worked. At the end of the 6th repe- 
tition join with sl.st. to the first s.c. first made. 
The two ends of the edging are neatly sewn together. 
Work 4 s.c around the 2 chains of 6 which are at 
the middle of each inner scallop. The loops on the 
outer edge of the rosette are worked with s.c and 
ch.st., according to illustration 14. In the 9 loops 
forming the bend of every scallop, work 1 s. c. Every 
scallop is fastened to another on the outer edge ; 
make 4 ch.st.; join with a sl.st. to the correspond 
ing st. of opposite scallop ; then work 5 s.c. around 
this chain of 4. 

The center of the rosette is an embroidered star, 
sewn to the crocheted scallops. 

See illustrations. 



23 



AFGHANS 



No. 1. — Afghan. 




This pattern is worked with double zephyr of two 
shades — light and dark. 

Work with the light shade as follows : 
Make a chain of 5 stitches. 



24 

1st row. — Take up the 4th, 3d, 2d, and 1st st. of 
chain. * Work the last loop alone from the needle; 
then the next 3 loops, drawing them together ; then 
the last two loops together. 

2d row. — Take up the 4 st. of last row as follows : 

The first loop is formed by passing the hook be- 
tween the two last stitches of last row ; the second 
by passing it through the loop of the 3 st. drawn 
together ; the third by passing it through the loop 
with which the first st. was drawn ; and the fourth 
by passing it through the following loop. Repeat 
from * until the required length of Afghan is ob- 
tained. 

Then work around this stripe with the dark shade 
as follows : 

Take up one st. of edge, then the next one, and 
draw the two loops together. * Take up again the 
stitch last taken up, then take up the following st. 
and draw the 2 loops together. Repeat from * until 
the stripe has been worked all around, making 
finally a cl.ch.st. and being careful to work a few 
extra stitches at the lower edge and upper edge, to 
prevent the work from pulling. Every finished 
stripe is fastened to the other on the wrong side 
with s.c. 

To work the fringe at the bottom edge of the 
Afghan, take first 3 threads of the dark-shaded 
zephyr, fold them in half and fasten them around 
a stitch of edge ; then in the next stitch alternate 
with the light-shaded zephyr in the same way. 

When the fringe has been put in, knot the thread 
according to illustration 1. 



25 
No. 2. — Afghan. 




This pretty pattern is worked in somewhat of an 
Afghan stitch, with double zephyr and corded silk. 
The bottom edge is finished off with points, made 
ont of zephyr, to which a fringe is worked. 

Make a chain of desired length with double 
zephyr. Working back on it, crochet as follows : 

Take up 4 st. of ch. ; draw the loops on the needle 
together ; * 1 ch.st. Take up the loop with which 
the last 4 st. have been drawn together ; pass the 
hook at the back. Take up the last of these 4 st. 
drawn together, passing the hook in the same way. 



26 

Take up next 2 st. of cli. ; draw the loops on the 
needle together. Repeat from *, until the end of 
row is reached. 

Work in the same way, alternating the next row 
with corded silk ; then the following one with dou- 
ble zephyr, etc. 

At the beginning of every row make 1 s.c. in the 
first st. of the last row ; then 1 ch.st.; take up the 
same stitch in which the 1 s.c. has been made ; then 
the ch.st. of last row ; take up the following 2 st. 
and draw the loops on the needle together. Then 
proceed from * to end of row. Break off the 
zephyr or silk at the end of each row. The border 
at the bottom edge of the Afghan is worked as fol- 
lows : 

* 1 s.c. around next st. of edge ; 3 ch.st.; 1 s.c. in 
the first of these 3 ch.st.; miss 1 st. of edge. Re- 
peat from *. 

Fasten to every point of the border a tassel of 3 
threads, folded in half. 



27 
No. 3. — Afghan. 




Two shades of double zephyr are nsed to work 
this pattern, alternating one stripe with dark- 
shaded, the other with light-shaded, zephyr. 

The dark-shaded stripes are worked lengthwise, 
as follows : 

Make a chain of required length. 

1st row. — Take up the stitches of chain. 



2d row. — Work the loops from the needle, like in 
the Afghan stitch. 

3d row. — Take np the st. of last row. 

4th row. — Work 2 loops from the needle. Make 
* 4 ch.st. ; 2 loops from the needle. Repeat from *'. 

5th row. — Take np the st. drawn together of last 
row, passing the needle through " the back loop 
of every stitch, and missing every time the chain 
of 4. 

6th row. — * Draw 2 loops on the needle together ; 
crochet 2 ch.st. Repeat from *. 

7th row. — * Take up together the 2 horizontal 
loops (at the back of the work), drawn together in 
last row ; then throw the zephyr around the needle. 
Repeat from *. 

8th row. — * Draw together one loop and the loop 
formed by throwing the zephyr around the needle 
in last row ; work 4 ch.st. Repeat from *. 

The 9th to 12th rows, inclusive, are worked with 
Afghan stitch. See illustration 3. 

The 13th to 16th rows, inclusive. — Work them 
like 3d to 6th rows, inclusive. 

17th row. — Take up the stitches drawn together 
of last row. 

18th row. — Work the loops from the needle with 
Afghan stitch. 

19th row. — Make a cl. ch.st. in every st. of last 
row. 

The next pattern stripe is worked in the width 
with light-shaded double zephyr. 

Make a chain of 15 stitches. 

Work 10 rows in an Afghan stitch. 



29 

llth row. — Take up, in the same way as before, 2 
st. of last row. Then make a loop as follows : 
throw the zephyr 3 times around the needle ; take 
up next stitch of last row ; then work this stitch 
and those 3 loops from the needle, one after the 
other. — Make one cl.ch.st. in the stitch last taken 
up of last row. Take up next 7 st. of preceding 
row ; make another loop in the same manner, as 
already described ; then take up the last remaining 
3 st. of last row. 

12th row. — Work all the stitches from the needle. 

13th row. — Take up all the st. of last row. 

14th row. — Work all the st. from the needle. 

15th row. — Take up 4 st. ; make a loop, as already 
described in 11th row; take up next 3 st. of last 
row ; make again a loop. Take up the next last 5 
st. of preceding row. 

16th row. — Work all the st. from the needle. 

17th row. — Take up all the st. of preceding row. 

18th row. — Work all the st. from the needle. 

19th row. — Take up 6 st. of last row ; make one 
loop, as described. Then take up next last 7 st. of 
preceding row. 

Repeat from 4th row to 19th row, inclusive, until 
the desired length of Afghan is reached. 

Then take a tapestry-needle, with darker shaded 
worsted than the stripe just worked and pass it twice 
through each loop. See illustration 3. 

The stripes, when finished, are to be fastened to- 
each other with the dark-shaded zephyr. 

The border has also to be worked with dark- 
shaded zephyr along the upper edge and side edges 



30 

of tiie Afghan, as follows: * 1 s.c. in next st. of 
edge ; 4 eh.st. ; miss 3 st. Repeat from *. 

Then work a chain by itself with light-shaded 
zephyr, and wind it through the border already 
worked on the edge of the Afghan. 

To make the fringe, take 4 threads of zephyr, 
fold them in half and fasten them in every 3d st. at 
the bottom edge of Afghan. The fringe will be of 
dark-shaded zephyr for the dark-shaded stripe, and 
of light-shaded zephyr for the light- shaded stripe. 



LACE EDGING. 




This edging is worked as follows : 

Make a chain of 38 stiches. 

1st row. — 1 s.c. in the 23d stitch of chain; alter- 
nate 3 times : 5 ch.st. ; 1 s.c. in the following 5th 
stitch. Then work 5 ch.st. ; miss 4; 3 d.c. in the fol- 
lowing 3 st. 



31 

2d row. — 3 cli.st., which will serve as 1 d.c. ; work 
twice, 1 d.c. around the loop between the next two 
d.c. of last row; then work 2 cli.st.; 1 s.c. around 
the middle one of the next 5 ch.st. Alternate 3 times: 
5 cli.st.; 1 s.c. around the middle one of the next 
5 ch.st. 

Then work 5 ch.st.; 2 d.c, separated by 1 ch.st., 
around the ch.st. following the last s.c; 15 ch.st. 

3d row. — 2 d.c, separated by 1 ch.st., around the 
ch.st., coming before the next d.c. of last row; 
1 ch.st.; 1 d.c. around the ch.st. coming between 
the next 2 d.c; 1 ch.st.; 2 d.c, separated by 1 ch.st. 
around the next 5 ch.st. ; alternate 3 times: 5 ch.st. ; 
1 s.c. around the middle one of the next 5 ch.st. 
Then 5 ch.st.; 1 d.c. around the ch.st. coming be- 
fore the next d.c; Avork twice ; 1 d.c. around the 
loop coming between next 2 d.c 

4th row. — 3 ch.st., which will serve as 1 d.c; work 
twice 1 d.c. around the loop coming between the 
next 2 d.c. of last row. Then work 2 ch.st.; 1 s.c. 
around the middle one of the next 5 ch.st.; alter- 
nate twice : 5 cli.st. ; 1 s.c. around the middle one of 
the next 5 ch.st. 

Work 5 ch.st.; 2 d.c, separated by 1 ch.st. around 
the 2 ch.st., coming before next d.c; alternate 4 
times; 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c around the ch.st. coming be- 
tween the next 2 d.c Then Avork 1 ch.st.; 2 d.c, 
separated by 1 ch.st., around the folloAving 5 ch.st.; 
15 ch.st, 

5th to 8th roAvs inclusive. — Work in the same man- 
ner as 3d and 4th roAvs, yet in every one of the 
roAvs the number of chains diminishes and the num- 
ber of d.c. augments, as is sIioavii in illustration. 



32 

9th row. — 2 d.c, separated by 1 ch.st., around the 
ch.st. coming before the next d.c; alternate 19 
times : 1 ch.st.; 1 d.c. around ch.st. coming between 
next 2 d.c. Then work 2 d.c, separated by 1 ch.st., 
around next 5 ch.st.; 5 ch.st.; 1 d.c. around the 
ch.st. coming before the next d.c. Work twice, 1 
d.c. around the loop coming between the next 2 d.c. 

10th to 17th rows, inclusive, are worked in the 
same way as from 8th to 1st rows inclusive ; but 
make 12 ch.st. where the 15 ch.st. have to be made. 

Always continue to work the pattern from 2d to 
17th rows inclusive. 

The border is worked as follows : 

* 4 s.c around the bend between two points of 
the work ; 9 s.c around the next chain of the bot- 
tom edge ; 10 s.c around the following one ; 12 s.c. 
around next one ; 14 s. c around the following ; 
then 12 around the next one ; 10 s.c; 9 s.c around 
the next 2 following chains. 

Repeat from *. 



Five Numbers Issued, 



OOnSTTEISTTS. 
No. 1 -HOW TO CROCHET. 

With full explanations of all Crochet Stitches, 
and numerous illustrations. 

No. 2.-LAMBREQTJIN DESIGNS. 

Especially adapted for Twine. Illustrated. (Second 
Edition ; Enlarged.) 

No. 3.-MISCELLANJ30US DESIGNS. 

Tidies, Mats and Spreads. Illustrated. 

No. 4.-FINE CROCHET WORK. 

Designs for Lace Edgings, Insertions, etc. 

No. 5.-MALTESE CROCHET WORK. 

And designs for Fringes, Afghans, etc. 



